Battery safety and Sub Ohm vaping...

[gords1001]

Correct, I'm not aware of an engine built in the last twenty years thats not a crossflow design, however a crossflow will always be a kent ohv engine.

I'm not familiar with your set up Dennis sorry, I use very low or no nic juices now, anything over 12mg in my rebuildable atomisers makes my head spin.

I would say that I didn't find many clearomiser's that could go much over ten watts, I didn't try very hard to find them though, the airflow killed them for me, I like a very open draw, always have, this goes hand in hand with low resistance/high wattage and lower nic strength imo.

 

[Dennis]

Do you think my Vamo will like this coil?

 

[Dennis]

Apparently not... 0.1 ohm... Lol

 

[gords1001]

You've got a short somewhere is all. Have a real good look around it.

I always check attys on my vamo (unless its my hybrid, then I'm very tentative at first and bell it out with my meter). It may not fire them but it will tell you if they have a short or not. I'd hazard a guess at a stray bit of kanthal.

Is that a fogger?

Edit, nope not a fogger, what atty? If its a kayfun try lifting the coil a touch, it may be touching the air tube and shorting.

 

[Chegs]

Several hours of swearing got this working, only it eats batteries faster than my charger can replenish them lol

Sent by lazer from just north of the world's largest nuclear dustbin

 

[Dennis]

You've got a short somewhere is all. Have a real good look around it.

I always check attys on my vamo (unless its my hybrid, then I'm very tentative at first and bell it out with my meter). It may not fire them but it will tell you if they have a short or not. I'd hazard a guess at a stray bit of kanthal.

Is that a fogger?

Edit, nope not a fogger, what atty? If its a kayfun try lifting the coil a touch, it may be touching the air tube and shorting.

None of the above. It's my evod clone. I was trying out some flat kanthal thrown in when I ordered some A1. Come to think, that could have been a short... Anyways I assumed that the wire was too LR and had too few wraps and pulled it out. Replaced it with A1 and got 3 ohms. On evods only the bottom wick is coiled. I wrapped it and the top "flavour" wick together to see how it vaped. Stuck another one on for good measure against leaking. I closed it up and put a little RY4 24mg into the tank. Since I forgot to prime the wicks I just let it soak up overnight. I'll try it later tonight. If it still sucks, I'll try wrapping all 3 2 mm wicks together.

Update: Vapes well but the flavour is the same muted flavour I got from it when it was new....nothing compared to my month-old cheap cartotank, which tastes great with this juice and previously "mentally menthol" from Alchemist Cupboard.

 

[p4t5h4rp]

Has anyone tried the Vappower 26650 4200mah batteries?

 

[darren89]

In light of recent developments I'm posting this safety information...

Currently there are NO reliable datasheets available for AW IMR OR Efest batteries (there are also a lot of fakes out there which WILL have lower capacities so only buy from reliable sources). In light of this it is difficult to say exactly what the safe discharge rates are for these batteries. If you are planning to vape Sub Ohm (Using a coil of less than 1 ohm) Please bear in mind the following...

Sub Ohm vaping is inherently dangerous, do not attempt it unless you are an experienced vaper.

I do not recommend Sub Ohm vaping at all and particularly not with unknown batteries, if you must vape Sub Ohm then use only specialist batteries with high constant discharge current ratings.

Currently the KNOWN safe constant discharge currents for AW and Efest batteries stand at 5.5a for 18350 size and 10a for 18650 size.

This makes the lowest safe coil resistances 0.76 Ohms for 18350 and 0.42 Ohms for 18650. DO NOT go below these levels unless you have specialist batteries and have seen the manufacturers specs regarding safe constant discharge current.

When measuring coils for Sub Ohm vaping it is recommended that you use a CALIBRATED multimeter, not a standard atomiser resistance testing box, these are fine for general vaping and as an indicator to show dead shorts but a difference of 0.1 Ohms between the display and actual resistance could result in battery failure during Sub Ohm vaping.

Always remember to check measurements twice before connecting your atomiser and when first firing a new build be aware of warning signs that something may be wrong such as the Mod body getting warm.

for those using multi coil setups a resistance calculator can be found here - Parallel Resistor Calculator R1 + R2 = equivalent resistor R resistance circuit equiv total resistor finder made easy piggyback = parallel - sengpielaudio Sengpiel Berlin

NOTE: Neither I nor POTV will accept responsibility if you melt your face, hands or any other body part whilst Sub Ohm Vaping, so if you end up with a face like a half sucked jelly baby - dont come running to me...

You've scared me a little now as I use variable box mods, I'm guessing sub ohming (0.5) on the likes of an istick 30w will be ok won't it?

 

[EmbraSewerRat]

You've scared me a little now as I use variable box mods, I'm guessing sub ohming (0.5) on the likes of an istick 30w will be ok won't it?

Aye, you're fine. The istick has a lipo cell which is a bit safer than a 18650 in some ways. As long as you are careful with it and don't stress it too much. And there be some circuit protection in the box to keep things tickety boo.
But this thread and others like it are well worth reading up on.

 

[Tubbyengineer]

You've scared me a little now as I use variable box mods, I'm guessing sub ohming (0.5) on the likes of an istick 30w will be ok won't it?

If you are using a regulated device like an iStick then there is built in protection, However the advice about good quality batteries still applies.

This thread was started way back in Novenber 2013 and things have moved on slightly since then, you can now find reliable battery capacity information here - Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

This has presets for the most common batteries and will show you how much "headroom" you have at various settings so you will know exactly what is being drawn from your battery for the relevant setting.

In your case the iStick has a built in battery so the internal circuitry should protect you from catastrophic failures and wont allow you to stress the battery beyond it's limits...