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A guide on calculating amp load using a regulated mod.

I'm assuming everyone knows there is a battery drain calculator on Steam engine that does these calculations for you - http://www.steam-engine.org/batt.asp
You just select the appropriate type of device and set the values as required...
Yes steam engine is a fantastic tool, I often see people sent to steam engine though, unfortunately to the wrong pages for what they require when using a regulated mod. (Not in that case though).

I just thought it would be handy for people to have a guide so they know how to calculate for themselves, and if they wish to use steam engine know how exactly it is getting those figures.
I will actually add that in as it is handy and something I did not think of doing. Thank you for your input :), anything that can help make it better and more helpful to all vapers is much appreciated.

Safety is a big issue, and a lot of people worry if their set up is safe. This is something I feel every vaper who wants to know if they are safe should know.
 
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yeah, I get that ... what I don't get is (ignoring Mooch's 19A rating for the moment)

the datasheet lists the max continuous current at 30A but that's only if you stop the discharge when the cell reaches 80°C, way before a continuous discharge has finished. The true continuous current rating from Sony is 15A.

"the true continuous current rating from Sony is 15A."
"datasheet lists the max continuous current at 30A"

that's just two contradictory statements and both come from Sony?
I have only just noticed the comments about the VTC cells- not sure which exact ones but I do recall an explanation for the difference in CDR.

One is during normal use, such as off the top of my head a Drill. Another would be something open, with active cooling of the batteries (I am not sure how this is done- I use the batteries for vaping, but know there are many other uses for them). In this situation, they can be run a lot higher safely.

It was quite a time back I read this though, but it seems a reasonable explanation to the difference.
 
I have only just noticed the comments about the VTC cells- not sure which exact ones but I do recall an explanation for the difference in CDR.

One is during normal use, such as off the top of my head a Drill. Another would be something open, with active cooling of the batteries (I am not sure how this is done- I use the batteries for vaping, but know there are many other uses for them). In this situation, they can be run a lot higher safely.

It was quite a time back I read this though, but it seems a reasonable explanation to the difference.

Thanks, yeah that makes sense.
 
Can someone explain what happens when you draw more amps than the battery can handle in a regulated mod.. what protection do regulated mods offer?

I'm sure there are numerous people out there who have unknowingly used a single 18650 mod at a wattage which is drawing way more amperage than what is deemed 'safe' and have suffered no venting or explosions.

Surely it's only dangerous if you were to constantly fire the mod as opposed to how the average vaper uses a mod.. intermediate 5 second puffs.. would this not just drain the battery super fast as opposed to doing any damage?

I might be completely wrong so please correct me just trying to fathom how it all relates in the real world.
 
Can someone explain what happens when you draw more amps than the battery can handle in a regulated mod.. what protection do regulated mods offer?

I'm sure there are numerous people out there who have unknowingly used a single 18650 mod at a wattage which is drawing way more amperage than what is deemed 'safe' and have suffered no venting or explosions.

Surely it's only dangerous if you were to constantly fire the mod as opposed to how the average vaper uses a mod.. intermediate 5 second puffs.. would this not just drain the battery super fast as opposed to doing any damage?

I might be completely wrong so please correct me just trying to fathom how it all relates in the real world.
Well, if the battery can supply it, then more amps will be drawn from the battery, still going over its CDR.

Regulated mods do have input limits, if I remember correctly the DNA75's hard limit is 32A, while in Escribe is set at 28A via software.

What can happen is the battery will sag so much, the low voltage warning will kick in, but with high quality batteries it is very likely you will be going past their CDR. I myself have pushed a dual 18650 mod far past a 25R's CDR, and as you say experienced no bad results.

For the best advice safety wise, never go over a cells CDR. Many people do though, and as you say in vaping situations the battery is being what we call 'pulsed'. The only thing is, there is no standard for pulse ratings across brands, so CDR is what is used.

In the real world, you are very unlikely to have anything bad happen going a few amps over, but from a safety standpoint it is always stated to stick under a given CDR.
 
As conan says, maybe nothing bad would happen but it's not worth the risk and also not worth hammering your batteries if you want them to last and perform well. Would you redline your motor vehicle in every gear all the time?
 
i'm one of 'newer' vapers. how come you don't seem to bother with coil resistance? is that irrelevant in a regulated? like, i have an Alien which tells me Amp, Volt, Ohms. going by your assessment when i'm using low Ohm coils (0.1--0.2) it can sometimes have really high Volt readings at anything over 48W. when using coils 0,3+ it leans on the Amps. i think thats the right way round anyway, though it could be Vots for the higher coils and Amps for the lower?!? either way, if i stick below 110W i'm safe?
another thing i have learned also is the difference between parallel and series set ups, gaining Volts on series and Amps on parallel. https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic...ries_and_parallel_mods_regulated_devices_and/ might be worth you mentioning that?

edit: reason i'm concerned is with the Alien i have been sticking to its read outs and using them, but, i just upgraded to an iJoy Limitless Lux for better TC and the fancy-schmancy user curve Watt setting (also 26650 batterys!). The screen shows me the Volt draw but doesn't have the Amps :(
 
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i'm one of 'newer' vapers. how come you don't seem to bother with coil resistance? is that irrelevant in a regulated? like, i have an Alien which tells me Amp, Volt, Ohms. going by your assessment when i'm using low Ohm coils (0.1--0.2) it can sometimes have really high Volt readings at anything over 48W. when using coils 0,3+ it leans on the Amps. i think thats the right way round anyway, though it could be Vots for the higher coils and Amps for the lower?!? either way, if i stick below 110W i'm safe?
another thing i have learned also is the difference between parallel and series set ups, gaining Volts on series and Amps on parallel. https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic...ries_and_parallel_mods_regulated_devices_and/ might be worth you mentioning that?

edit: reason i'm concerned is with the Alien i have been sticking to its read outs and using them, but, i just upgraded to an iJoy Limitless Lux for better TC and the fancy-schmancy user curve Watt setting (also 26650 batterys!). The screen shows me the Volt draw but doesn't have the Amps :(

With a regulated mod, coil resistance does not effect the amp load on your batteries- only watts and input voltage do.

48W at 0.1 or 1 Ohm will draw the same from your batteries regulated. What you are seeing on screen is the output of the mod- not the input.

The amps will be higher or lower at the output stage depending on resistance, but will be exactly the same on your batteries at the input stage regardless of resistance.

To put out more watts, more voltage is needed to provide this. Your batteries can only output the voltage level they are at- the board then either bucks the voltage down, or boosts it to provide the volts needed for your chosen power setting.

As long as you are using at least 20A batteries, 110W is fine. The calculation would be your watts divided by the input voltage, and as voltage falls amp load increases in a regulated mod, opposite to a mech mod.

The calculation, assuming a cutoff of 3.1V per cell, would be- 110/6.2=17.74A. Add in say 90% efficiency, and you are at 19.71A.

The majority of high power regulated mods are in series, as with a high input voltage in say a triple 18650 configuration high power levels can be achieved safely. There are some parallel regulated mods, but these are mainly for boards like the DNA75 which requires the voltage of one cell to operate.
There are some exceptions to this, but the benefits of dual parallel are more apparent with a mech mod than regulated. Regulated mods that use two 18650's in parallel rarely go as high wattage wise as series mods, and the calculation used is the same- watts divided by input voltage.
The ultra high power, quad 18650 mods use a series-parallel wiring, so you have both the voltage of a series input, and the increase in available amps of parallel.

Don't worry about the mod not having an amp readout on screen, I think this is a good thing. Also remember it isn't the volt draw, this is determined by the voltage of your batteries, it is the output voltage after the board has done its magic.
Amp readings on screen just lead to confusion for new vapers as they think it is the amp load on their batteries- it isn't, it is the output amps.
 
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Havent delved much into dual/triple mods, But thinking im going to buy a predator. So by this, If I were to use two Samsung 30Qs in it, The safest wattage I can go to is 110W? I generally dont go past 45ish anyway - but like to push to 65 -75 on occasion
 
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