Hot button question

[mustybadger]

Hi all,

So, I'm reasonably experienced with mechanical mods (by no means an expert, but still, I've spent a lot of time researching battery safety, even brought and read a couple of books on mechanical mod safety in vaping!), I've used plenty of tube mods over the years and fully understand ohm's law etc...but this one has me a little stumped on what to try next.

So, I have a mechanical squonker (the Anchor Mods Nano - internals look like this...not my picture)

My issue is that i'm occasionally getting a problem where I will press the fire button, nothing will happen (the attie wont fire) and i'll get a reasonable amount of heat being transferred through to the button. I've not had this problem before but I understand that this is normally as a result of a crappy connection between the connection plate and the positive nut...The 510 is a modmaker 510, and the connection plate is hitting the positive nut and not the 510 connection plate. I've taken the silver plated connection sled out and given it a good clean with rubbing alcohol, same with the positive nut, but it's not made the blindest bit of difference. The heat doesn't transfer to the battery, but after a bit of use, the positive nut will be hot. I've ensured that the positive nut is tightened down. The attie won't be hot, the battery wont be hot, nothing will be hot apart from the button and the positive nut.

I've obviously also ensured that the build I have is consistent and is far above the battery safety limit (0.38ohms on a Sony VTC5A).

Any other suggestions before I look to buy a replacement 510 from MM? Or just send it back to Custom Vapes?

Edit: Just to add, here is a picture of the positive nut and the connection plate. Is that tiny imperfection enough to cause this issue? Looks like the marks you can see are where the plate and pin line up. Neither imperfection will come off no matter now much I clean them...maybe I should try bending the connection plate down a bit so a different part of the plate is hitting the positive nut?

 

[mustybadger]

Just to answer my own question in case anyone else has the same issue...the blemish you can see above was enough to cause the problem. Filed back the connection plate to remove the blemish and it's "hitting" much harder than it has before. No misfires either, so it seems like that was the issue.

Top level QC on a £135 mod...oh well, at least it's fixed

 

[Michael jackson]

Glad you managed to sort it

 

[oldhippydude]

The marks could be from arcing. A poor connection caused arcing across the gap causing the damage marks, causing worse connection and even more arcing. Arcing will produce heat.
Just my guess, never had a hot button or arcing.

 

[mustybadger]

The marks could be from arcing. A poor connection caused arcing across the gap causing the damage marks, causing worse connection and even more arcing. Arcing will produce heat.
Just my guess, never had a hot button or arcing.

Yep, sounds accurate. Honestly not impressed in the slightest with the build quality of the connection plate. Was obviously just cut and not filed down or anything (the picture makes it looks fairly smooth, but in person I can assure you it wasn't!). Suspect that was the reason for the arcing. Now it's all smoothed out it's flawless Just needed a bit of DIY...

 

[oldhippydude]

If the problem comes back, it might be worth thinking about ways of increasing the size of the point of contact between the plate and the nut.
Perhaps grinding a flat face onto the nut or shaping the plate so a larger area contacts the nut.
As with my previous comment this is not based on experience, just theory.