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Billet Box questions

mustybadger

Postman
Joined
May 17, 2016
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How-do all,

Just looking for some advice really as I have a number of questions but don't seem to be able to find any answers.

1: Airflow. I understand that different bridges and/or RTA sections will provide different airflow, and there is no adjustable airflow, but I wanted to get a better understanding on exactly what the options are. Say, for example, I am using the Nautilus bridge with a 1.8ohm BVC coil. In comparison to the draw you get off of the Nautilus Mini, how airy would you say it was? Airier than the 4th airflow option? And if I was to get the Exocet RTA with Kayfun v5 airflow adapters, same question? Then, on the flip side of the coin, if I was to use the Kanger OCC bridge, how much DTL airflow would I manage to get?

2: Drip tip. Do the BB's use a standard 510 drip tip? Or is it some sort of proprietary size? I know you have to remove it to get to the tank, but wanted to better understand options.

3: If I was to go down the SXK DNA route, is there any way to upgrade the firmware?

4: Magnet orientation / authentic BB panels. On the newer DNA60 SXK BB's, will aftermarket panels designed for the authentic fit?

I think that about sums up my questions thus far. Any help would be appreciated!

Cheers m'deers.
Ollie
 
ok, here goes @mustybadger

1. airflow. i have tried the nautilus 1.8 coils, kanger 1.5ohms and the exocet with KF5 adaptors. i like a pretty tight MTL, and my favourite so far has been the exocet with the 1.5mm diameter KF5 adaptor. the side of the billet box will let plenty of air through, so the limiting factor will be either the hole in the KF5 adaptor, or the internal diameter of the nautilus and kanger coils. i have never used a nautilus mini, so can't really compare, but i would think that the nautilus mini with the airflow completely open would mean that the airflow would only be limited by the internal diameter of the coil. i think the nautilus is a little tighter than the kanger 1.5 ohm coils, so if you want it a little looser, then you could look at using some of the lower ohm kanger coils that have bigger ID coils. not really a conclusive answer, but i hope it goes some way to help.

2. standard 510. the screw in part holds the boro tank in place, and leaves behind a 510 sized hole. there are aftermarket all-in-one screw in drip tips, but i think the threads are different from the OEM BB, so most screw in tips don't fit. i have seen that some people have found ones that fit the clones, but i just use standard 510 drip tips.

3. as standard - no. the DNA board is accessible under the covers, but there is no hidden USB port. i have seen someone (somewhere) trying to retrofit a USB port to the BB, but no idea if they were successful. i suppose it is possible to solder the usb cable to the board, but not sure there is enough room under the cover to store it.

4. it seems to be a bit of a lottery for magnet orientation. i think most of the newer SXK BBs have the magnet orientation fixed (i.e. the same as the OEM) my early production silver BB has all magnets in the same orientation (not like OEM), and then my dober turned up with weird, seemingly random magnet orientation, which is not like OEM or my silver BB. consequently the SXK grey swirly panels i bought (with OEM magnet orientation) don't fit either of my BBs. i think i was just unlucky though, and i expect most new production BBs to be OEM orientation.

hope this helps
 
I like the Nature Vape carto's made especially for the BB, they give for me the best drawer out of all the other choices and I have them all. Just waiting for delivery today of another one and then I am all set!!
 
I tried a lot of permutations of BVC coils. Non of them did it for me - I like things quite tight. Tried the Insider, bit too finicky with wicking for me, reminded me of half a Goblin Mini. The Exocet + KF5 restrictor is a great combination.

As mentioned above, there was a solution to getting a DNA60 connected to escribe. It was posted on one of the BB Facebook groups. It was quite elegant, involved cutting the bottom of the switch place to expose a custom plug made from what looked like a motherboard jumper riser. The Asmodus board is perfectly useable, no appreciable delay in firing, might even be more efficient than a DNA60. I never go over 15watts, so I'm not exactly pushing it
 
@quincey43

I was having a look at those mate. Worth a shot at £8. Do they require a bridge?
No bridge required and they can be dry burned on any mod and rewicked numerous times! The only problem I had was when I pushed the carto into the tank it pulled the cotton out! I now push the carto in the tank and thread the cotton through once it's in the tank and then cut the cotton, a bit fiddly but easy enough. So the £8.00 is very economical in the long run.
 
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