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rta tc building relearning a work in progress..

Discussion in 'Rebuildable Mods and Devices' started by fil, Apr 28, 2020.

  1. fil

    fil Postman

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    I am having to relearn how to build my tanks without glasses and with cataracts, progress has been a bit of a mixes bag below is pictured the tanks i have built so far, from left to right,
    1)a 'lemo,-3; clone,, which did belch out a blob of juice overnight after initial build but has remained 'full' and dry since stood with its air in wide open. (might be a filling feature of this clone??)
    2) 2 x eleaf lemo-2 both coiled with ni200 - both passed the casual vape test. (held in hand at odd angles while on the sofa) Both been vaped/refilled ok..
    3,4) 2 x kanger subtank clones 3 fitted with a clone unmodified rba head, 4 fitted with an official rba head. both remained dry after 24 hours stood with air in wide open, yet to test in the hand..
    5) ? very goblin-esq build deck different 'shell' dry after standing..
    6) Goblin, again dry after standing .
    7) Fogger5 again ok after standing..
    8,9 in front) 2 x goblins leaked/ wept enough juice in ways to wet fingers within hours of building..
    btw ive taken a non bubbly draw from each of the 'Stood-ok' builds every now and then too..
    and the atty on the mod in the background is a subtank with an occ ni200 coil not a rta head.
    [​IMG]
    a closer look at the wicking and airway clearance of the leaky goblins..
    [​IMG]
    and the other sides..
    [​IMG]
    * vape bands are on TC builds Ni200 and SS 316
    Both look ok to me , a little overhang of wick over the air intakes but not sufficient to drip juice, well i thought not at least??

    So im thinking bad/'dry' seals so will juice up and check the orings etc use a few strips of ptfe and add/redirect a bit more cotton into the juice channels and away from the air in??

    Unless i receive better more enlightened advice???

    thanks for looking,
     

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