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Firing button heating beyond belief

bbf90b

Postman
Joined
Apr 25, 2014
Messages
160
Ok, so the other day I had a .16 ohm build in my panzer black hawk and as to be expected the button heated up like hell. Now i have put in a 6 wrap .32 kanthal parallel sleeper coil in it and it continued to heat to the point of burning me. Then I put in a dual 6 wrap parallel of the same thing aaannd, hot button. Finally I put in a single 6 wrap parallel and it is STILL FUCKING HEATING UP!!!! Ive put some ridiculous builds in here that never did this. Why is this happening now?? Can anyone help me out?? This is my only ecig and if it is messed up I have no money to buy another ):

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Is your panzer mod on magnets or springs? If it's springs well, as the current passes through the switch and touches the spring, it sort of acts like a coil within it's self.


If your on magnets then I'm guessing it's something to do with the natural path of least resistance, where if some contacts are dirty, the current will pass through the connections that have the best conductivity. That's why some people report getting a tingle or small electric shock in their hand when firing their mod.

Personally I've not experienced the last two so couldn't advise you on that! Apart from the obvious cleaning and checking of contact points.
If your panzer is running on springs though get a magnet upgrade set for it, I once fired a .3 build on an atom clone I had and holy shit, two seconds later the button was hot enough to fry a small egg on
 
Its running springs. But as I said, I have no money to buy a new mod or even upgrades for the current one. I'm a broke college kid. XP

Sent from my Prism II using Planet of the Vapes mobile app
 
Had the same problem with my copper vanilla. Tore it all down, gave it a good scrub with salt and vinegar followed by a thorough rinse then got some wet and dry sand paper and took off the top layer of both my switch and 510 connections. Haven't had any more hot or even warm buttons since and that was with a 0.12 build with a sprung switch.
 
Simple. .
Is your panzer painted?
Do the threads have paint?
If so, remove it.
Then, clean.everything.
Also, what batteries?
 
Since.I'm.bored and annoyed, I'll add some stuff.
Heat is caused by resistance.
Resistance is caused by many things.
Coatings on.threads, shite springs (copper coaxial cable.works wonders here) , grit in threading, grit on contacts, dirt in contacts, and last but not least, minor arcing on your batteries negative (yep, that can happen and is a daily occurrence for me if I drip).
So, basically, clean everything to within an.inch of its life and make a spring.out of copper coaxial. :)

Ps. To whoever left me a rep comment. I am.no legend, I just break things then find out why afterwards.
 
Check that you arent getting a short in the 510 connector of your topcap, if you are getting a hard short then the current will just be looping round the mod and not going to your coil, thus the spring in the switch will get hot as buggery. What size magnets do you need for the switch? I ha a couple that have an id of 7mm od of 10mm that dont fit my akuma that i could send your way if they any use. If you work your way through all the advice given in this thread so far so should suss it out. Have you tried a different atomiser? Could be a short in tbe 510 of that. Is the coil actually firing up?
 
Raguri it is painted, though the threads are not. Sony VTC 5 is the battery, and it was me that left you the comment haha

And I just finished cleaning off all contacts real quick which made the coils fire better (they were firing in the first place) and also made the button heat up just as much if not a bit more. SublimeSparo the atty is a plume veil. No shorts in the 510 that I can detect, but there may possibly be one. How would i tell??
Like I said, the coils are still firing, so I'm not really sure what is up with it. I'll check the size for the magnets because you arent the only person to tell me I should upgrade to magnets

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