Anyone with a Kanger Subtank Mini? Help needed.

[dw117]

paskal Yeah nice idea, I'll try that if the replacement longer pin doesn't turn up soon. Presume it does mean that the 510 is then quite recessed compared to the threads?

 

[joebroom]

what i did

So picked one of these up the other day, got it mainly for the RBA section. Built up the RBA section and put it all together just to end up having a 'Check Atomiser' warning appearing on my devices (both my Vaporflasks and rDNA40).

I pin pointed the issue to a gap between the gold 510 pin of the Subtanks base and the RBA section as can be seen through the AFC (pic to follow)

I just wondered if I was the only one with this issue or others have experienced this, I don't think I can fix this issue as there is no movement in the 510 pin to close the gap, but was just looking to see if anyone else had the problem also.

I have no issues with the stock coils, just the RBA section.


@myepack - Ash I hope you don't mind me tagging you in this mate as I emailed you this morning regarding this, but I'm not sure if you still have issues with your email system

I just took the rubber bit out and messed around with it loads squeezing it in my fingers and rolling it up tight to make it less firm..... put pin back in..... sorted.

 

[funtimefrank]

Fixed - I bought another one

I just took the rubber bit out and messed around with it loads squeezing it in my fingers and rolling it up tight to make it less firm..... put pin back in..... sorted.

Ok - so in my frustration - after waiting for a longer pin and it still not firing. I just ended up buying another one. (Ouch... I know, another £38... This is not really a fix)

Anyway, comparing the two. The insulator for the one that works is a brownish colour. This is in insulator that goes between the bottom of the RBA sector and the pin that holds the RBA section together.

The one which doesn't fire - has a clear/transparent insulator. I don't know if it's the size of the RBA pin or the insulator. But they are the only difference I can see. Brownish colour works fine. Clear/transparent insulator doesn't fire.

I have two now - and I'm happy with the one which is working. Works like a charm.

Thanks for all your help guys

Cheers

Frank

 

[dw117]

I have finally gotten mine to work properly now.

Instead of replacing the positive pin insulator with the insulator from an occ coil, I took the normal one out and carefully using scissors and sandpaper shortened it at the Base. If you compare the occ insulator to the normal one the thicker (in diameter) section at the Base is longer on the normal.

So I cut it and smoothed it with sandpaper so it was about half as long and more closely resembled the occ coil insulator.

Don't bother cutting the thinner top section as that just sticks into the Base. You want the 510 pin Base to sit higher after you've done this. It works perfectly now on all my devices while before it didn't ever work on my spring loaded 510 devices and sometimes worked if you screwed it down really hard on a fixed 510 pin, thus pushing the 510 pin on the Subtank up a little. Hope this helps someone.

 

[kendickson]

An idea....

I wish I had read this a while ago, I had exactly the same issue with my subtanks. I had two subtanks (actually three now) and while rebuilding them I got exactly the same "check atomiser" message on a 50W iStick. After some checking I found the base of the RBA was slightly different between the two tanks stopping one of the RBA bases screwing fully home to the tank base. The other one was fine as the difference in RBA bases allowed it to fit. Also, the two tanks had different colours of insulators. The gap between the RBA base and the tank base was just about the same as shown in the picture of yours.

On close inspection I noticed a difference between the upstand at the edge of the bottom of the RBA bases. The difference is slight but it is there. I couldn't see any difference between the tank bases but there must have been a difference.

It is possible what you have are different batches of tank and RBA. This may be unlikely, but it does explain one possible cause of this. Something definitely changed at some point in these tanks, or Kanger are using different suppliers who's components are not compatible.

It may be a bit late now but it would be worth taking the tank back to the retailer to check this. It is also worth checking the dimensions of the RBA and tank bases with a vernier if you can do that.

I know it's a bit late now, but it may help explain at least.

Take care and happy vaping.

 

[jgadea]

Lockett

I have similar problem as yours. Seems like my Zero SX's free-floating pin wasn't pushing the Subtank's center pin hard enough, and because of that, my mod cannot fire (error No Atomizer pops up).

So I've been tinkering around, and I might found a fast and simple solution to this issue.

First, lets see how much different it is between the OCC and the RDA.

This is the original rubber insulator of Subtank Mini

What you have to do is take the rubber insulator from the OCC coilhead to replace the original ones

Push it in (preferably without the center pin at first)

Then put in the center pin.

My issue with the RDA-to-center-pin gap finally solved. I hope its working for you and others too

How were you able to push it in..?

 

[jgadea]

I got it to work..! Key ingredient...PATIENCE!
Thanks for the tip.