Anyone with a Kanger Subtank Mini? Help needed.

[Diablo]

There is another thread running elsewhere with the same issues noted. But in that he showed a picture of the rba side by side with an occ coil. There is a small but significant difference in the lenght of the 510/pin connection point. Significantly shorter on his rba to the occ coil fitting. I am guessing kanger had issues with their tolerances at some point. Decked flat you could see how his rba wasnt going to play nice

 

[Lockett]

There is another thread running elsewhere with the same issues noted. But in that he showed a picture of the rba side by side with an occ coil. There is a small but significant difference in the lenght of the 510/pin connection point. Significantly shorter on his rba to the occ coil fitting. I am guessing kanger had issues with their tolerances at some point. Decked flat you could see how his rba wasnt going to play nice

There certainly is a tolerance issue, but I have noticed screwing in a OCC coil it pushed the 510 pin out a little bit, when using the RBA deck you can push the 510 back in and it will connect. The issue with mine was the actual base itself. Not sure what the issue was, but a replacement RBA and Base from myepack (thanks by the way Ash!) solved my issue for me. I'm just glad its working now.

Going forward hopefully Kanger will notice these issues a revise it with one of there updates, which we all know happens every few weeks

 

[dw117]

Also having this issue. Does anyone know exactly how long the 510 pin should be?

 

[Gary Lee]

Also having this issue. Does anyone know exactly how long the 510 pin should be?

10.76mm

 

[dw117]

10.76mm

Haha that's awfully precise, did you measure it?

I don't trust the face you're pulling

Also since I posted this I spoke to Ash at myepack and he should be sending me a replacement longer pin once they get them from Kanger. Apparently it's an issue with a small % of the subtank minis.

 

[Gary Lee]

Haha that's awfully precise, did you measure it?

I don't trust the face you're pulling

Also since I posted this I spoke to Ash at myepack and he should be sending me a replacement longer pin once they get them from Kanger. Apparently it's an issue with a small % of the subtank minis.

That to me is the "there you go" face
But yeah. I removed it and used digital calipers!

 

[dogsdanglies]

Sorry if its already said :

Check that your coil isnt touching the inner chimney.

 

[dw117]

That to me is the "there you go" face
But yeah. I removed it and used digital calipers!

Nice, thank you! I don't have anything that will measure that accurately but it should give me an idea of how short mine is (assuming that's the issue, like I said I should have a longer one coming my way soon)

 

[paskal]

Lockett

I have similar problem as yours. Seems like my Zero SX's free-floating pin wasn't pushing the Subtank's center pin hard enough, and because of that, my mod cannot fire (error No Atomizer pops up).

So I've been tinkering around, and I might found a fast and simple solution to this issue.

First, lets see how much different it is between the OCC and the RDA.

This is the original rubber insulator of Subtank Mini

What you have to do is take the rubber insulator from the OCC coilhead to replace the original ones

Push it in (preferably without the center pin at first)

Then put in the center pin.

My issue with the RDA-to-center-pin gap finally solved. I hope its working for you and others too

 

[Lockett]

paskal thats a really informative post and solution. Thank you. Hopefully it helps people in the future who may have this issue.