Sub-Ohm Warning!

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Please read THIS POST for more information.

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.11 22g nichrome build reading 0.07

Discussion in 'Cloud Chasing & Sub Ohming' started by spambanjo, Jan 29, 2015.

  1. spambanjo

    spambanjo Member

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    Hi gents. I'm looking for a little friendly advise from anyone who has had a similar problem to this.

    Last night I got my Cigreen n23 through and decided to do a nice chucking build. Originally went for a 5 wrap dual 22g nichrome on a 2.4mm driver which should have read around .08-.1. Nope, ohm meter read .05 after pinching :stop:
    Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

    Being my slightly paranoid self, I ditched the build and did it again, this time with with an extra wrap. After pinching this build should weigh in at .1-.12, so I expected to this to solve the problem... nope... thing now read .07. :6:
    Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

    >>>>> WTFing intensifies <<<<<

    Tools & Toys:
    Steam engine website
    Ebay £12 ohm meter
    22g Nichrome
    Cigreen n23
    Samsung 20r (I use 25rs usually, but 20rs for pulsing and very low builds)
    Copper Chaplin clone mod

    Things I've checked so far:
    - Changed the batteries in the ohm meter.
    - Tested with my multimeter but it's only accurate to .1, ohm meter says it's .1.
    - Pulsed and pinched for about 6-8 minutes trying to raise resistance. No joy.
    - Battery not even warm even after pulsing for so long.

    The N23 is a centre block deck so I know it's not leads crossing, and it's probably the single cleanest build I've ever made. Tight coils, short legs and centred better than any other build I've made. The coils heat up perfectly in sync... I'm so fookin confused.

    I got brave before I went to bed, wicked her up and had a few hits, and my holy shit does she chunk the clerds. She's putting out better than my god mod cranked up to 180w on a .57ohm 12 wrap 24g kanthal, and with the n23's airflow wide open the vapour is not even slightly warm. The flavour is amazing, and the atty, mod & battery stayed very cool after about 8-12 hits.

    Is there anything else I can check for before I shell out on a new ohm meter? Any other tips or advice you might have would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. dw1986

    dw1986 Achiever

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    The main thing that springs to mind there mate is the eBay ohm meter. A lot of them from experience tend to be off, I reckon you have got one that is reading 0.05 off. May be worth getting in contact with the vendor to check.

    Build seems fine to me!
     
  3. concentriccircles

    concentriccircles Postman

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    Have you got a regulated mod that can give you a resistance readout for comparison? Failing that borrow a multimeter to check the resistance matches?
     
  4. spambanjo

    spambanjo Member

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    Thanks for the reply. I think you're right, I might have to contact the vendor at this rate because that seems like quite a large disparity to me. The ohm meter is the only thing playing on my mind.

    Unfortunately the only reg I have is the god 180, and it wont read down that low. My dad is actually an electrician, so I'll see if he has access to a more accurate ohm meter just so as I know how far out my ohm meter is.

    I think the long and short of it is that a new ohm meter is needed. Are there any branded ohm meters that are recommended for super-sub builds? I'm aware of the expensive multimeter options but I'm on quite a tight budget as it's my son's birthday this month.

    Thanks again both of you.
     
  5. dw1986

    dw1986 Achiever

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    Unfortunately mate unless you have a spare 500 quid lying about then no, there aren't any that are even near accurate enough for super sub builds. You can try this, but it isn't cheap and I cannot vouch for its accuracy-

    AideTek Precision Milliohm Meters vs Extech 4 wire kelvin clip 0adjust large LCD | eBay

    I know that doesn't really help, but its the truth I am afraid, speaking from experience. Alternatively you need to find out as precisely as you can what the variance is on your ohms checker and just factor that in, especially when playing around with this sort of resistance.
     
  6. spambanjo

    spambanjo Member

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    Bah, gutted.

    From experience how much can I trust the calculator at steam engine for lower builds? It's always been spot on for me at anything over about 1.5ohm. I'm safety concious and a little reckless at the same time, so even though I'm building quite low I'm constantly checking my batteries to make sure they aren't getting hot. So far my 20r/25rs aren't even getting close to warm in this build so I'm going to trust my intuition on this one at least.
     
  7. dw1986

    dw1986 Achiever

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    At your own risk buddy. Steam engine is bang on, a warm battery is no indication that something is wrong, even with IMRs, they can just go bang (I have been in the room when it has happened). I've stopped building below 0.2 myself now just to be on the safe side and I just put more power through my coils instead, you can chuck the clouds in a safer manner that way! Learned my lesson through a few melted insulators and close calls haha, but I'm not one to lecture :)
     

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