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What are my chances/options?

Durham

Postman
Joined
Nov 16, 2013
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Do any of you mod makers think I may be able to get my once trusted torch turned into a decent bit of kit? I have looked at all things shiny from abroad and then remembered I had this which was purchased from Hong Kong over 10 years ago. It has been so well used that half of the LEDs have now burnt out.

Is it possible to convert. I know that I will at least need someone with a metal lathe which I unfortunately do not own. I would like it to be able to accept a number of different tanks etc so obviously a 501 thread.

I am unable at present, to loosen the very top part where the LEDs sit but I am pretty certain that it will come loose with a bit of grunt.

If I remember correctly it is made from Titanium and is 5 3/4" in length, battery compartment width 1 1/2" Width across the LED part is 3"

The button is still here, couldn't get it back in once I took it all apart however, I think a different type of button would be needed anyway.

Can anyone help with this or should I just succumb to ordering a clone?

Would it be worth it to convert and if so at roughly what cost?

If this is not quite the right place to be asking please feel free to move the thread.

Thank you for reading.


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Anything is possible. Now if you could replace each LED with a coil and wick that would be impressive :D
 
Durham

I'll try and list this
1. A torch battery compartment is almost exactly the same as for a mod
2. Switch needs replacing - replacement needs to be 3amp,
3. Top cap once you get this off, you will be able to see the basic connections required :)

Can you tell me:
What is the diameter of the switch housing/hole?
What size of battery did/do you use in it?
stealthvape have the required switches and 510 connectors etc, you may have to open the housing/hole a little for the switch

Possible for top:
Buy a Metal/Brass disc of the same size, drill out size for 510 connector, run wires to battery and switch and you have a basic mod :)
 
@Gilliandrea The button hole is 10mm, the batteries that are/were in was simply 3 x 1.5v AAA pencils held in a triple casing which measures 53mm x 22mm. :)
 
@Gilliandrea The button hole is 10mm, the batteries that are/were in was simply 3 x 1.5v AAA pencils held in a triple casing which measures 53mm x 22mm. :)

That means a 18500 (18mm diameter x 50mm) battery would fit in the space (may rattle a little)
The battery connections are already there, and the hot spring in the base would take up the remaining 3mm

A switch like this http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/electr...itches/black-pushbutton-momentary-horn-switch would fit, but you would need to widen the hole to 12mm, easily done if you have a reamer or even using a file :)
 
Thank you @Gilliandrea
It seems pretty straight forward however I am not that keyed up on anything even relating to soldering wires n batteries n stuff, so even more studying will be done before I attempt it all.

I have managed to get the end cap free "the LEDs bit" This part does not have a screw thread as first imagined, it was simply a very tight fit and held in place with some kind of resin. I will need to try and source someone with a lathe for to make that part.

Not having any knowledge or very little about vaping at this stage, what kind of power would that battery set up put out and what would be the ideal tank with regards Ohms rating?

There may well be space available to include a VV, would it increase the enjoyment of the vaping any or is it just as easy to stick with a basic simple mod set up.

Once again thank you very much for your help thus far.
:worship:
 
@Durham

I suggest you watch @garrydibley's 'Tin Your Tip' for a basic box mod, this will give you a better idea on the process of a basic mod :)
He goes over soldering, wiring and everything that will help you on your journey :)
 
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There may well be space available to include a VV, would it increase the enjoyment of the vaping any or is it just as easy to stick with a basic simple mod set up.

You'd struggle to fit any VV board in there. Best to stick to an unregulated mod (no additional circuitry). You can probably use the tube as your negative, so would just need to run something from the battery pos to the switch and on to the 510. I wouldn't bother with fabricating a top cap. A bit of putty would be far simpler (edit to say you may need to run a neg wire too if you go the putty route)!

Garry does a tyt with a poundland torch mod. Probably a good starting point for you.
 
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