My nemesis aka the 510 connector

[bigalzz]

Steffi - It sounds as though you are using a "push to break" switch if the multimeter reads 8V with the switch unpressed, and 0V when it is pressed. So, the circuit is constantly live until you press the switch and it breaks the contact and "turns off" until you release it again and it makes contact again.

don't think so lee, but i've been wrong before :smile-new:

 

[steffijade]

The switches are 'momentary' which I thought are the same as 'push to make'. Is there a difference between momentary and push to make guys?

 

[bigalzz]

The switches are 'momentary' which I thought are the same as 'push to make'. Is there a difference between momentary and push to make guys?

momentary just means the connection is made for as long as you hold in the button. i'm fairly certain your switch is not the problem. can you post a link to the circuit diagram and i'll have a look.

 

[steffijade]

Argh!

Argh!

ARGH!

The first rule of bimbo club is: you do NOT talk about bimbo club.


Psst .... wanna join a club for bimbos?

Right ... problem solved.

Why oh why has no one ever taken the time to explain to me the difference between + & - ? (ahem).

I'm almost certain I remember Garry saying in one of his videos that on vv boards, it didn't really matter which way round the boards were wired, as long as the input and output matched.

Apparently, on the boards I got, it does matter.

I had a chill out with a coffee and a vape and went to have another look at my set up. After a few mins, I spotted that I'd actually soldered the pos to the neg input and visa versa. I'd done the outputs on the same 'channels', so in theory (screw theory) it should have worked. I thought what the hell? it can't hurt to try swapping them and bugger me, it worked.

I'm sat vaping on one very battered and ugly looking vv tin mod as I type this.

I keep telling myself that I can't possibly get any dafter .... and then promptly go and prove myself wrong.

I'm just gonna call it a learning curve and tell myself I'll know better next time (not likely though) and besides, it could have been worse .... I could have made myself look an even bigger bimbo by asking stupid questions in a forum (ahem).

Thank you for your input guys I really do appreciate it.

 

[bigalzz]

lol, glad your sorted steffi. post a pic of yer mod :joyous:

 

[EthelKing]

don't think so lee

My bad - assumption - the mother of all f*ck ups!

 

[bigalzz]

My bad - assumption - the mother of all f*ck ups!

lol, lee. i shoulda said i'm an electrical and electronics engineer and have been for 25 years :lemo:

 

[steffijade]

You may want to view these from behind the sofa .... Dr Who stylee.

The 'good' side :

View attachment 1764

The bad side :

View attachment 1765

Obligatory full frontal nudity shot :

View attachment 1766

It lives! ... at least for now :

View attachment 1767

I think I'll put this abberation to one side as a memento .... it won't last a week of proper usage. The tin is too flimsy (though with some support inside this type of tin might work), it's thrown together and the reglued battery box/vv board will probably work loose and A, L, I, B, I it aint got no alibi it's UGLY. Despite this, I'm chuffed I (eventually) got it to work and it represents a step forward in my quest to extend the middle digit at the MHRA by being independant.

I've got a few plain 2oz baccy tins (the unhinged type ... perfect match for me) that are a bit sturdier and I think I'll have another bash, taking more time and care. Hopefully, it might have some longevity but now I know that I can actually make a mod that works, the world's me winkle (oysters way too posh for me).

 

[bigalzz]

it looks good to me steffi :courage:

 

[Bryan123456]

Great first go... it looks very tidy compared to Bodgefest. Will there be a MKII?