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Measuring amps.

RicModMaker

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I've built a tin mod, used high amp button and wire but it doesn't hit as hard as a mech.
Is there a way to measure amps with a multimeter?
 
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As far as I know, not realistically, since an ammeter has to be connected in series with the circuit, which would be difficult with an atomiser connaected. The best way to my mind would be to use ohm's law (V=IR), where v is volts, I is current(amps) and R is resistance of your atty. Therefore, if you know the voltage you are kicking out, and the resistance, you can work out the current by I=V/R.
 
And I'd suggest that any voltdrop you find will either be in the soldered connections or the wires you have used. Remember, the thicker gauge wire you use, the less resistance so the less voltdrop.
 
And I'd suggest that any voltdrop you find will either be in the soldered connections or the wires you have used. Remember, the thicker gauge wire you use, the less resistance so the less voltdrop.

That's the thing. There is no voltage drop. 0.01 difference when i measured the battery and the 510 Atty side.
Sits nicely at 4.2. It just doesn't deliver the vape a mech does which is why I think its an amp issue somewhere but as I'm using a 26a switch and over 20a cable, these should be enough to cope with my Atty.
Confused.com!
 
Have you measured the vokt drop under load? So you can see what your actually getting when you fire with an atty on? Your connections can be fine with no load on and give similar readings to a bare cell. But put a load on and you may find your dropping close to a volt.

What resistance coils are you testing with? So we have an idea of the expected current. It would be possible to test using a clamp meter and thick cable or if your above say .6ohm a meter and thick leads in libe with the circuit. It could also be your switch is adding resistance to the circuit which will affect things.
 
Have you measured the vokt drop under load? So you can see what your actually getting when you fire with an atty on? Your connections can be fine with no load on and give similar readings to a bare cell. But put a load on and you may find your dropping close to a volt.

What resistance coils are you testing with? So we have an idea of the expected current. It would be possible to test using a clamp meter and thick cable or if your above say .6ohm a meter and thick leads in libe with the circuit. It could also be your switch is adding resistance to the circuit which will affect things.

I'll give that a try and let you know how I get on. Thanks fella.
 
Pull the tail cap (If it has one). Get some heavy copper wire (The stuff they use for wiring up mains sockets is fine). Cut a couple of lengths as short as practical - 5-6" works for me. Strip the ends, fold over the copper at one end so you can only just jam it into the 4mm sockets on the meter.

If there's no tail cap, it may be possible to jam the wires (with an insulator between them) into the battery socket. Hit the fire button and watch the amps.

This may help.
 
Have you measured the vokt drop under load? So you can see what your actually getting when you fire with an atty on? Your connections can be fine with no load on and give similar readings to a bare cell. But put a load on and you may find your dropping close to a volt.

What resistance coils are you testing with? So we have an idea of the expected current. It would be possible to test using a clamp meter and thick cable or if your above say .6ohm a meter and thick leads in libe with the circuit. It could also be your switch is adding resistance to the circuit which will affect things.

Hi gords1001
I just took the multimeter to the positive and negative posts on an IGO L, fired up and measured the voltage.
My Mod: 2.92V
M16 Mod: 3.60v

As you can see, there's quite a bit of voltage drop.
Being a noob, I thought using high amp wire and a high amp switch would do the trick.
I'm obviously loosing it somewhere. ;(
 
I've just taken off the ground wire from the switch and used a big lump of mains wire to connect the switch to the side of the 510.
I've got it up to 3.12v
I'm now questioning the high amp wire I've got so I think I'll also replace the positive from the battery to the centre of the 510 with mains wire in my next build.
 
The dna20 draws 7a and they suggest using 22 gauge cable iirc. For a direct cell to atty type box, I would want to go much bigger. Mains cable is one option. Or go to an rc shop and buy a couole of handfuls of rc racing car motor cable. Its very flexible and can take proper high current.
 
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