How does the DNA200 achieve 200 watts if the fuse blows at 25A?

[conanthewarrior]

Hi people-I was wondering something earlier.

I understand that with the DNA200's nominal voltage of 11.1V, and full charge of 12.6V, and its lowest charge, If I build below 0.4 the highest it hits is 20A.

I notice that with a 80W preheat, and a punch around 6, it hits 17 amps for a fraction of a second then once it hits temp drops to ten or under.

So, is it safe to run my DNA200 just once to test it at its full power-building below 0.4 to make sure I am 5 amps under the 25A fuse blowing.

Say I accidentally had a standard build on there, but the power was near 200W, but above 0.4, what would happen? Would it not fire-or would it fire and the fuse blow?

I am very unlikely to do so-both devices will be used with TC in mind, the hotcig for lower wattage, the Efusion for my drippers and 80-100W max builds/coils that need that power.

I understand under 0.4 I am completely safe, at 12.6V it goes to 0.7 but I would only build lower for two reasons-I would not want to blow the fuse, and I don't fancy 200W at 0.7 lol.

So, really my question is will it not fire, or will the fuse blow?

Thanks people, Conan.

 

[TruckinVaper]

It doesn't matter to the fuse what ohms your coil is built at, the fuse is on the input not the output. Worst case scenario with a 3V per cell cut off giving you 9V total, 200W divide by the 9V gives 22.22A max. That will be why they used a 25A fuse.

Why did they decide on 133W when the did the update for running dual cell? 133W divided by 6V this time 22.22A, not a coincidence.

You're more likely to blow the fuse setting the cut off voltage too low. Not that you would but imagine you set the cut off at 2.5V per cell. This time the 200W would be divided by 7.5V, 26.66A.

I've not tested it but I'd suspect it would hit 200W with a coil of around 0.7ohm with a fully charged battery, the 0.4ohm figure would allow for 200W right down to cut off Voltage. Any higher and the power will drop off throughout the battery cycle due to not having the ability to boost voltage, only drop it.

 

[conanthewarrior]

EDITorry-I thought this was a PM. Thanks for your answers, but I typed something completely irrelevant lol.

 

[TruckinVaper]

I was wrong there anyway. Just went and reminded myself of the figures it can achieve and I didn't remember but the output voltage is limited to 9V so 0.4 would be the highest resistance it will fire to 200W.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I was wrong there anyway. Just went and reminded myself of the figures it can achieve and I didn't remember but the output voltage is limited to 9V so 0.4 would be the highest resistance it will fire to 200W.

Yeah thats what I worked out, 0.7 at full charge, 0.4 at its lowest-but if I was going for a high power build it would be in the .2-3 area. TBH I mainly try to go for flavour now, and just enjoy the longer battery life of my higher powered devices-but I DO enjoy going mad maybe once a week lol.

 

[Tubbyengineer]

Yeah thats what I worked out, 0.7 at full charge, 0.4 at its lowest-but if I was going for a high power build it would be in the .2-3 area. TBH I mainly try to go for flavour now, and just enjoy the longer battery life of my higher powered devices-but I DO enjoy going mad maybe once a week lol.

Remember the board has built in soft limiting - It just won't let you blow the fuse by vaping, the fuse is there to prevent serious damage to the board from incorrect wiring - it will blow before the board does, IIRC On the Evolv forum it also states that the fuse may blow if the battery polarity is reversed...

 

[Tubbyengineer]

From the early adopters forum...

Q: Considering there is an onboard fuse on the DNA200, is it still recommended to fuse the LIPO?
A: The fuse is directly inline with the battery, and is a tertiary protection as is. It should only come into play in the event of catastrophic board failure or unprotected reversed battery. That said, if you have space I will never argue against an extra fuse.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Remember the board has built in soft limiting - It just won't let you blow the fuse by vaping, the fuse is there to prevent serious damage to the board from incorrect wiring - it will blow before the board does, IIRC On the Evolv forum it also states that the fuse may blow if the battery polarity is reversed...

Thanks man. I knew reverse polarity blew it, I had to hang at the evolv forums for a while while I was having problems with my hotcig (Which, BTW, is Fine if you are a light vaper. It nowhere near lasts me the day even with the new battery, but it is only 900MAH. I am hoping the Efusion I have on the way is better at 1300MAH).

So trying to vape on it accidentally, say I forgot to switch profiles, and was on a power profile, and put a higher resistance coil I use, the fuse wouldn't go? It just would not fire?

Again-this is VERY unlikely to happen- I just don't want to damage my £100+ mods lol. The hotcig already has a new board in it (It come that way-and gearbest were AWFUL in the way they dealt with me and 2 friends. Paypal and Evolv was our saviour in the end).

Thanks Tubbyengineer.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Also @Tubbyengineer , seeing as mine COME with a fuse that was near the end of its life (5 days) does that mean something was seriously wrong inside? Those hotcig buggers. I am happy it works now though-just not happy on battery life lol.

I am more likely to use my IPV 3 LI or SIg 150, currently I am actually using the EVIC VT Mini, and am very surprised how good it is-especially with the rebuildable coils (TI26 G ID 2MM .33 build) so have actually been using that the most lately. Especially as it does SS too, I think thats a great kit.

I am still not sure wether to make it my recommended starter set up-an acquaintance got one the other day-and had to message me for help. He was using it in power mode-the shop had gave him some standard coils as he was used to standard vaping, not TC.

I helped him through some stuff, like what battery he had (LG HG2) and basic safety-he said to me you know more than the man in the shop did. That was quite a good feeling lol

I did tell him howeever how to actually change modes and how to use the TC controls, with a quick explanation what TC is and Isn't, I told him to get used to the device first, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS, and then after a few weeks give it a go.

EDIT: I did tell him eventually he can rebuild his own coils for it and make his own juice, but did not want to overload him with information. I thought getting him using the device safely and properly was the main thing to start with. He had come from a variable wattage device though- so I THINK he will be good in a few weeks as he is not unintelligent, he said he will definitely be asking me more questions, I told him he can always do that on facebook-or join planet of the vapes for the UK, or if he wants a worldwide forum, VU, but that both sites have great guides-but the English are a little more friendly as we are(Mostly, I have 2 great friends on VU that are American) lol.

 

[jsixtysix]

Did I read somewhere.. or was it Mast from Plumes..? ...Saying some of the wiring used by these manufacturers wasn't up to it, or at least that was the suspicion, hence fuses blowing and returns happening...