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Cthulhu Tube: First Look

After the first couple of mods and tanks we all turned into hobbyists anyway. I said I'd not be doing squonking ever and I believe zouz and Si had a similar outlook. Now here we are sharing info on devices and atomisers, it's just part of the journey to keep the interest up and steer us away from the ciggies, so just enjoy :)

And back on-topic, I'm sure I'm not the only one who was initially very interested in this device but views change as the story develops. I'd be curious to know if there's any danger of the negative battery post denting the battery if the tube is dropped, read someone mention this elsewhere.
 
After the first couple of mods and tanks we all turned into hobbyists anyway. I said I'd not be doing squonking ever and I believe zouz and Si had a similar outlook. Now here we are sharing info on devices and atomisers, it's just part of the journey to keep the interest up and steer us away from the ciggies, so just enjoy :)

And back on-topic, I'm sure I'm not the only one who was initially very interested in this device but views change as the story develops. I'd be curious to know if there's any danger of the negative battery post denting the battery if the tube is dropped, read someone mention this elsewhere.

I'm defo not a hobbyist and I don't really use mechs and I don't squonk.... but I get your point. ;)

99% of the time i'm RTA and a regulated mod, there's no benefit to using anything else for me.

yeah, there could be a danger of that, that goes for pretty much any mod though, I dropped my epetite the other day, (outside on concrete paving) damaged the battery and smashed the negative contact flat, I had to prize it back up, which was scary as I was convinced it was going to snap and I couldn't replace that for 4 bucks ... so, yeah don't drop your mods. :)
 
..... which reminds me, I need to stick my pulse mod in the classies.
 
After the first couple of mods and tanks we all turned into hobbyists anyway. I said I'd not be doing squonking ever and I believe zouz and Si had a similar outlook. Now here we are sharing info on devices and atomisers, it's just part of the journey to keep the interest up and steer us away from the ciggies, so just enjoy :)

And back on-topic, I'm sure I'm not the only one who was initially very interested in this device but views change as the story develops. I'd be curious to know if there's any danger of the negative battery post denting the battery if the tube is dropped, read someone mention this elsewhere.
Yes, that’s definitely true about the hobbyist trait! I too have picked up a slight Squonk habit in past month, & that’s what has led me to be mech curious. Am still interested in this mod, but will wait for a while before deciding. I’ve really enjoyed some of the recent Cthulhu products, but am also aware that they have been good at listening to critics of first batch products & have made changes to improve them. Hopefully they will change that octopus logo back to their normal one too!
 
It's a pretty small contact I guess, 3mm or something? I guess it wouldn't take much to drive it into the bottom of the cell, same if you really cranked the tightening mechanism down too... (which you don't want to be doing either)

img_20190216_002551-jpg.185329
 
It's less dangerous than a mod pushing the positive end down though, so I guess you could look at it as a safety feature. ;)

Better to have that spike driven into the negative end than it crushing the positive down when you drop it. :D LOL....
 
It's less dangerous than a mod pushing the positive end down though, so I guess you could look at it as a safety feature. ;)

Better to have that spike driven into the negative end than it crushing the positive down when you drop it. :D LOL....

.... or try to insert your batteries ........ ;)

It's interesting the 'safety fuse' needs replacing though. You used to be able to get ones that would re-set eventually. Could be these are safer ...... dunno ........
 
.... or try to insert your batteries ........ ;)

It's interesting the 'safety fuse' needs replacing though. You used to be able to get ones that would re-set eventually. Could be these are safer ...... dunno ........

I don't exactly know, I'm just saying what I was told in half english/half chinese and presuming a few things.

When I build guitar pedals the circuits have a diode for protection, if there's a voltage surge the diode blows (because it's only rated just above what it needs to be) and protects the other components, especially IC's (integrated circuits ie 'chips') as it breaks the circuit and stops the voltage passing through the rest of it. (these are larger through hole components and can be de-soldered and replaced)

When they told me that the circuit board would need replacing in a short circuit or reverse current situation I'm presuming it's a similar deal here, that there's a diode (or something like it) that will blow and essentially disconnect the + and - .... being tiny surface mount components, it's not something that you would want to try and replace (I wouldn't anyway) and it's not going to reset because it's not a switch it's more like a blown fuse. (or protection diode)

If that is what's going on, then yeah it's pretty safe. It says in the manual that it's rated for up to 40A, so I'm presume something in the circuit is only rated for 40A and any more than that it will just fry and break the circuit.

We need a reviewer like DJ or Phil to run proper tests really.
 
I don't exactly know, I'm just saying what I was told in half english/half chinese and presuming a few things.

When I build guitar pedals the circuits have a diode for protection, if there's a voltage surge the diode blows (because it's only rated just above what it needs to be) and protects the other components, especially IC's (integrated circuits ie 'chips') as it breaks the circuit and stops the voltage passing through the rest of it. (these are larger through hole components and can be de-soldered and replaced)

When they told me that the circuit board would need replacing in a short circuit or reverse current situation I'm presuming it's a similar deal here, that there's a diode (or something like it) that will blow and essentially disconnect the + and - .... being tiny surface mount components, it's not something that you would want to try and replace (I wouldn't anyway) and it's not going to reset because it's not a switch it's more like a blown fuse. (or protection diode)

If that is what's going on, then yeah it's pretty safe. It says in the manual that it's rated for up to 40A, so I'm presume something in the circuit is only rated for 40A and any more than that it will just fry and break the circuit.

We need a reviewer like DJ or Phil to run proper tests really.
More complicated than the ones I remember. Thanks. :)

https://www.thebestecigarette.co.uk/ecig-mods/mechanical-mods/smoktech-magnet-7a-safety-fuse/
 
Well, that's mine fucked now anyway.... :(

In the name of science I took mine out and lifted the contact gently, it's very thin...... like very very thin.

Got it to the horizontal position as described, which only took a very gentle lift.

Put my haster mini back on top, took it off and it was squashed right back down again...

Took it out again, lifted it up gently .... ping, snapped off.

conclusion, lifting it up and down with metal that thin isn't going to work, I should have just left it squashed down and it probably would have been fine.

@cthulhumod If you are going to do it like this, and recommend people keep lifting it up, it needs to be thicker metal or a different design, I'm sorry to report that I don't think this is good enough. :( I can see people breaking so many of these it's going to be a nightmare for you and your customers.

I think you need to start working on a V.1.1 board with something different there asap.
 
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