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0.05 ohm mod?

Don't worry about it. That info is more advanced than I am willing to put into practice at this point. I kept it in its simplest form. Which is why I specifically did not mention battery charge, volts, watts, etc etc.. and stated "research this for yourself" and not just rely on the information in a forum. For example.. there is no way anybody here can tell you how many times your battery has been charged. Which of course, affects its fully charged state. See? Just keeping it simple to answer the question. In really simple terms.. think of your coil as a pot of water on the stove.. you heat it until it boils and turn it off. Temp is 100C or 212F. put a thermometer in until the bubbles stop, not turn the stove back on and time how long it takes to reach 100C again. After the initial "ramp up" from cold to boiling.. the time it takes to reboil after x number of seconds will be the same for the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th etc boils. Obviously, if the water cools to 99C each time, applying the same heat to get it to 100C the time will be the same. By the way, internal resistance doesn't really apply to regulated mods. The software controls everything.

If you still don't get it, don't worry about it. You will get it when you need to, which is when you need to research it on your own, should you ever choose to do so. Like if you never plan to enter a competition, you probably never need to know this. lol.

I have no problem 'getting it' buddy.

I was under the impression 'comp' stuff usually refers to mechs, not regulated stuff.

If we're talking regulated mods, internal battery resistance isn't that important providing there's enough voltage available to fulfil the load demand. The internal resistance does apply to regulated mods as well as and perhaps more importantly the atomiser being used. A good example of this is the dna200/escribe which actually uses a case analyser function to accurately set a resistance datum for that particular mod. Ambient Temperature is one factor which will effect the overall case resistance.

As for mechs, as I said. You increase the temperature you may get a little bump in voltage from the cell due to lower internal resistance, but you would also get a greater internal resistance of the mod, atty, coil etc. Adding to this the depletion of the cell from one use to another. I can only see a down hill slope I'm afraid.

Perhaps if you stuck your mech and atty in a deep freeze and warmed your cell up before putting it in you might notice a slight boost, even better, liquid nitrogen, turn that baby into a superconductor. Clouds for days bro [emoji23]

Disclaimer** please don't put your mod in liquid nitrogen. [emoji16]
 
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I have no problem 'getting it' buddy.

I was under the impression 'comp' stuff usually refers to mechs, not regulated stuff.

If we're talking regulated mods, internal battery resistance isn't that important providing there's enough voltage available to fulfil the load demand. The internal resistance does apply to regulated mods as well as and perhaps more importantly the atomiser being used. A good example of this is the dna200/escribe which actually uses a case analyser function to accurately set a resistance datum for that particular mod. Ambient Temperature is one factor which will effect the overall case resistance.

As for mechs, as I said. You increase the temperature you may get a little bump in voltage from the cell due to lower internal resistance, but you would also get a greater internal resistance of the mod, atty, coil etc. Adding to this the depletion of the cell from one use to another. I can only see a down hill slope I'm afraid.

Perhaps if you stuck your mech and atty in a deep freeze and warmed your cell up before putting it in you might notice a slight boost, even better, liquid nitrogen, turn that baby into a superconductor. Clouds for days bro [emoji23]

Disclaimer** please don't put your mod in liquid nitrogen. [emoji16]
regulated and mechanical were not mentioned in the post I was replying to, only 2nd and 3rd pulls producing bigger clouds, due to heating of the coil. Now as soon as I see you talking about "depletion of the cell from one use to another" I'm done replying. You should do more research.
 
regulated and mechanical were not mentioned in the post I was replying to, only 2nd and 3rd pulls producing bigger clouds, due to heating of the coil. Now as soon as I see you talking about "depletion of the cell from one use to another" I'm done replying. You should do more research.

Lol, that's funny. Please sir, school us some more. We have all been putting the battery's in sideways until you come along [emoji30]

I'm rather confused, you say your talking about regs, but the information your giving out about battery's is largely connected to mech use.

Now the important thing is I don't buy cheap batteries. I ask Jason, the Mech specialist at the vape shop, he tells me which batteries to buy. He knows I don't give a rats behind about a few extra $$$ where batteries are concerned.
Another bit of info.. the internal resistance of a battery lowers as you use it.. so you will get a bigger cloud on your 3rd pull than you did on your first. That's just a bit of info you don't really need much, but good to know. You probably noticed that on a lot of the build videos where the guy builds on a mech.. each cloud is a little bigger than the last one when he vapes the coil.

You stated here that you get a bigger cloud on your 3rd pull then your first, you then changed it to 2nd pull a bit later on. Either way I disagree with your argument as to why.


Now let me put something to you. An alternative argument as to why you may feel your getting a bigger cloud on your 2nd/3rd pull.

[1st pull]

Wick oversaturated= less vapour

coil cold =less vapour

Risk of Spit back and juice in mouth means you probably pull less on this hit= less vapour.


[2nd pull]

Wick perfect saturation for efficient vaporisation = good vapour production

Residual heat in coil = good vapour production

Battery at near peak charge = good vapour production.

You take a big long lung full = good vapour production


[3rd pull]

Wick drying out = less vapour

Coil overheated = less vapour

Vape hot, you pull less = less vapour

Battery has lost voltage = less vapour


There also could be a placebo effect (of sorts) going on here. You feel you get a bigger cloud on the 2nd pull so you do. With no real way of measuring the cloud, your only going off your own judgement.

Now I've generalised there ,depending on how much juice you've used, the build, wicking etc would mean that any of the above conditions could last through more pulls then I've laid out, but I feel the example demonstrates my thinking.


You keep telling people to do there research, but as you've admitted, your getting your information from a 'man in a shop' and the Internet. That's why when somebody questions your viewpoint your acting so defensive and your struggling to bring a counter argument beyond what's youve originally said and 'do your research'.



I wouldn't normally entertain this sort of thing with you, but your trying to educate people in things I believe you don't truly understand yourself. Using the sources of information you've described and then trying to school people is perhaps a little short sighted on your behalf.

I'll say no more on the subject now.
 
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Lol, that's funny. Please sir, school us some more. We have all been putting the battery's in sideways until you come along [emoji30]

I'm rather confused, you say your talking about regs, but the information your giving out about battery's is largely connected to mech use.



You stated here that you get a bigger cloud on your 3rd pull then your first, you then changed it to 2nd pull a bit later on. Either way I disagree with your argument as to why.


Now let me put something to you. An alternative argument as to why you may feel your getting a bigger cloud on your 2nd/3rd pull.

[1st pull]

Wick oversaturated= less vapour

coil cold =less vapour

Risk of Spit back and juice in mouth means you probably pull less on this hit= less vapour.


[2nd pull]

Wick perfect saturation for efficient vaporisation = good vapour production

Residual heat in coil = good vapour production

Battery at near peak charge = good vapour production.

You take a big long lung full = good vapour production


[3rd pull]

Wick drying out = less vapour

Coil overheated = less vapour

Vape hot, you pull less = less vapour

Battery has lost voltage = less vapour


There also could be a placebo effect (of sorts) going on here. You feel you get a bigger cloud on the 2nd pull so you do. With no real way of measuring the cloud, your only going off your own judgement.

Now I've generalised there ,depending on how much juice you've used, the build, wicking etc would mean that any of the above conditions could last through more pulls then I've laid out, but I feel the example demonstrates my thinking.


You keep telling people to do there research, but as you've admitted, your getting your information from a 'man in a shop' and the Internet. That's why when somebody questions your viewpoint your acting so defensive and your struggling to bring a counter argument beyond what's youve originally said and 'do your research'.



I wouldn't normally entertain this sort of thing with you, but your trying to educate people in things I believe you don't truly understand yourself. Using the sources of information you've described and then trying to school people is perhaps a little short sighted on your behalf.

I'll say no more on the subject now.

[emoji651]️[emoji651]️[emoji651]️[emoji651]️this in spades[emoji651]️[emoji651]️[emoji651]️[emoji651]️

The man talks sense
 
Lol, that's funny. Please sir, school us some more. We have all been putting the battery's in sideways until you come along [emoji30]

I'm rather confused, you say your talking about regs, but the information your giving out about battery's is largely connected to mech use.



You stated here that you get a bigger cloud on your 3rd pull then your first, you then changed it to 2nd pull a bit later on. Either way I disagree with your argument as to why.


Now let me put something to you. An alternative argument as to why you may feel your getting a bigger cloud on your 2nd/3rd pull.

[1st pull]

Wick oversaturated= less vapour

coil cold =less vapour

Risk of Spit back and juice in mouth means you probably pull less on this hit= less vapour.


[2nd pull]

Wick perfect saturation for efficient vaporisation = good vapour production

Residual heat in coil = good vapour production

Battery at near peak charge = good vapour production.

You take a big long lung full = good vapour production


[3rd pull]

Wick drying out = less vapour

Coil overheated = less vapour

Vape hot, you pull less = less vapour

Battery has lost voltage = less vapour


There also could be a placebo effect (of sorts) going on here. You feel you get a bigger cloud on the 2nd pull so you do. With no real way of measuring the cloud, your only going off your own judgement.

Now I've generalised there ,depending on how much juice you've used, the build, wicking etc would mean that any of the above conditions could last through more pulls then I've laid out, but I feel the example demonstrates my thinking.


You keep telling people to do there research, but as you've admitted, your getting your information from a 'man in a shop' and the Internet. That's why when somebody questions your viewpoint your acting so defensive and your struggling to bring a counter argument beyond what's youve originally said and 'do your research'.



I wouldn't normally entertain this sort of thing with you, but your trying to educate people in things I believe you don't truly understand yourself. Using the sources of information you've described and then trying to school people is perhaps a little short sighted on your behalf.

I'll say no more on the subject now.

Don't worry bud- judging by how the post started he'd have blown himself up by mid way through the second pull so anything from there on in is pretty much irrelevant [emoji6]
 
Now the important thing is I don't buy cheap batteries. I ask Jason, the Mech specialist at the vape shop

I think you have priorities wrong.

The important bit, is discussing POTENTIALLY FATAL builds on a public forum, the important bit is NOT your chat with the mech specialist Jason...
 
I think you have priorities wrong.

The important bit, is discussing POTENTIALLY FATAL builds on a public forum, the important bit is NOT your chat with the mech specialist Jason...
The important bit, is DON'T USE BUILDS IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND OHMS LAW. Why do you think I stopped responding when posters started demonstrating less than average knowledge about the topic. Simple.. the original post was about some clown using a mod estimated around 0.05ohm and if there was a regulated mod that would do this (I have never heard of one) , no sane person should do that as was clearly stated for anyone not to god damn lazy to read. Don't look to me to give you the answers, I also clearly stated do your own research. I'm not going to tell you what the amps and discharge rate is on your batteries, how the hell would I know that? For all i know, you pulled them from some laptop you found on top of a pile of trash. Now if you don't want to do your homework and buy top end batteries for your regulated or mech mod, it's no skin off MY FACE. Any build is "potentially fatal, or harmful" if you don't know what you are doing, are to lazy to do your homework, are to cheap to buy the proper equipment or just plain to stupid to live (such as pointing an unwicked mech mod at your face and firing it to see the pretty wires.) *yes, it has happened..."I was just holding it and it just went off in my hand and burned my face" just doesn't wash. *
You see all these news articles telling part of the story, usually lies because the person it happened to is to embarrassed to admit they caused the incident themselves, but the fact is.. EVERY ONE OF THEM WAS USER ERROR. If you leave you batteries in the charger and go on vacation for a week and they catch fire and burn your house down.. is that the manufacturers fault? If you use batteries where the wrap is clearly damaged and they short in your mod, whose fault is that? Sonys? LGs? It is YOUR MOD and YOU are responsible for checking the damn batteries before you put them in the charger and again before putting them in your mod. So don't go running your mouth off about "potentially fatal builds" because you don't understand how to use them. Im not saying anyone SHOULD build below 0.15 ohm unless they are an advanced user and know what they are doing. But if you do build lower, it is up to YOU to know how to use the build safely and what to do if something goes wrong. If you can't do that, stick to regulated mods and build higher that 0.25ohm. 0.3 is perfectly fine for most builds. Even some crazy builds of 6 coils or more. Personally, I don't really care for the performance of a 6 coil build unless you have a 250w+ mod to run it on. And to be quite honest, no way in hell would i use that on a mech. I know of one company manufacturing an 8 coil premade atomizer coil.
In other words. if you don't know exactly what you are doing, don't try to do it.
 
You are hilarious. I'll assume you are a parody account of sorts, it's the only explanation.
 
[QUOTE="gbalkam, post: 1272811, member: 39530" Don't look to me to give you the answers, [/QUOTE]

I won't
 
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