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New Dwarf Pipe

anubis

Mod Maker
Joined
Feb 22, 2014
Messages
49
Over the past seven months I have been working on some new designs. What with upgrading my workshop with new tools and upgrading my computer because I was not able to update my web site (bloody microsoft) it has been slow going, but things are now turning around. I now have some models that work well.
The first picture is the Steampipe 30 shown with a churchwarden stem (although a normal stem is more practical). It uses a 18350 battery and has a kick adapter for power regulation.
Actual.JPG

This next one is a Steampipe 30 but with a 18650 battery and kick adapter for power regulation (it is also a "work in progress" and has not been finished yet.
Mockup.JPG



The Dwarf Pipe

The Wooden Bowl
First thing to make is a laminated wood blank. This is done by gluing seven pieces of wood together. Each piece is reduced to about 10mm on a thicknesser/planer. Two extra pieces, 2mm thick are also glued on to either side. This is then clamped for 24 hours until the glue dries. The laminated block is then turned on the lathe to produce a cylindrical wood blank. Seven 10mm slices are cut off and re-glued together to produce a chequered effect which is then clamped in a vice and left for another 24 hours to dry. This cylindrical blank is then mounted on the lathe off centre (the diameter off the blank is about 75mm so the off centre mark I use is 30mm in on the centre laminate). The bowl is now cut producing a 50mm ball shaped bottom which tapers to the top 5mm on one side and 20mm on the other. The top of the bowl is still round (75mm dia) so 10mm is cut off each side so that when you look at the top of the bowl you will see 5 x 10mm stripes with a 2.5mm stripe on each side. The bowl is now sanded smooth and two coats of sanding sealer applied.
A 22mm hole is drilled into the top on the over hanging side at an angle of 60 to 80 degrees (depending on which pipe I am making) which produces a "window" in the side as the drill bit comes out of the over hang and goes back into the main body. Also on top, a 38mm hole is drilled to a depth of 3mm (to take the steampunk emblem). A 25mm hole is also drilled so that the bottom of the hole is just below the bottom of the angled 22mm hole. On one side of the bowl a 17.5mm hole is drilled to provide a flat bottom for the switch. Inside this, a 12mm hole is drilled to take the body of the switch.
The bowl is now given seven coats of varnish, denibbing with 2000 grit paper between coats, and then polished.

The Pipe
This is made up of two aluminium tubes which are reduced in size to 22mm outside diameter and 19mm (top and bottom of each tube) inside diameter. A thread is then cut into the top and bottom of each tube. These are then powder coated.
The top tube holds the 510 adapter and the kick device. For the 510 adapter a 5mm washer is made that is threaded inside and out to fit onto the 510 and into the tube. On the bottom of this tube a 10mm thick piece of aluminum is screwed into place to a depth of of 7mm. This is a 20mm round bar that has been threaded on the outside with an 8mm hole drilled through the centre. At the top of the piece a 10.5mm hole is drilled to a depth of 2mm. A piece of acetal is now cut to the same shape as the hole with a 1mm thick by 17mm diameter top. A 6mm hole is drilled through the centre with a 8.5mm hole drilled to a depth of 2mm which is then glued into the aluminium. A thin plastic washer is then glued onto the bottom. An aluminium rod is then reduced in size to fit the 6mm hole. One end is reduced to fit the hole in the centre of the AAA battery spring and is then rivited onto the spring. This is then pushed through the hole in the acetal so that the spring sits into the 8.5mm indent. The rod and spring are now fully insulated against the rest of the tube. A brass 22mm plumbing olive is pushed over the tube until the bottom of said olive is in line with the bottom of the aluminium plug. Six holes are drilled into the olive, tube and aluminum plug equidistantly around it's circumference and six copper rivets are glued in place. The olive and rivets are then polished and given a coat off varnish. The top pice is now finnshed.
A piece of acetal is now turned on the lathe and threaded to fit the bottom of the tube. This has a 5mm hole drilled through the centre with an 8.5mm indented to 2mm for the battery spring to sit in. Just under the threaded part of the acetal a 2.5mm hole is drilled at a 45 degree angle. This hole will take the negative wire which connects to the bottom of the battery tube. A wire is soldered onto a AAA battery spring which is then glued into the indent. This assembly is screwed and glued into the bottom of the tube.
A battery it placed into the bottom tube and the top 'kick assembly' is then screwed onto the top of the battery tube which is then tested to make sure it works.
The battery assembly is glued into the bowl and the two wires comming out of the bottom are soldered on to the switch wich is then glued into place. The steampunk emblem is glued into the 38mm hole.
A cone shaped collet is needed for the pipe stem (mouth piece). This is a 22mm acetal rod turned on a lathe. A plastic drip tip is also reduced in size on the lathe so that it fits into the pipe stem. The collet is glued onto the pipe stem and the drip tip is glued to the inside of the pipe stem.
The aerotank mega is screwed onto the 510 adapter with the new pipe stem attached - the pipe is now finished

NewModels.JPG

From the left - the first bowl is made of laminated Bamboo the second is Mahogany and the third is a lamination of two different types of Mahogany and Oak
 
Amazing, the amount of work and craftsmanship in those, just awesome
Have you ever thought of having something like a dna75 or the new dna60 in a pipe design?
 
Amazing, the amount of work and craftsmanship in those, just awesome
Have you ever thought of having something like a dna75 or the new dna60 in a pipe design?

Yes I have - but - it means I would have to put the dna between the battery and 510 adapter. This makes it very difficult to have a side button on the bowl due to the wiring or I would have to put the battery and dna into the bowl which would make the bowl to big so I had to compromise by having a kick adapter. The upside of this is that with the Aero Mega and 1.8 ohm dual coil running at 12 - 15 watts I get about the same vapour output as I would get from a Kangertech Kbox mini with a 0.5 ohm VCC coil running at 35 watts. Also the vapour is cooler, I use less juice and if the kick adapter fails (and I haven't had a failure yet) they are a doddle to replace. But I take your point and am still working on the problem.
 
Wow @anubis these are gorgeous. I particularly like the first one, and I love a side switch and find it much more comfortable to use than a button on top of the bowl. Beautiful work. :)
 
The time and effort you put into these I can see is well worth the payoff-I don't have a pipe style mod myself but these are beautiful.

Was you a pipe smoker yourself, hence choosing to make pipes, or is it more of a cool hobby of yours making these pipes?
 
The time and effort you put into these I can see is well worth the payoff-I don't have a pipe style mod myself but these are beautiful.

Was you a pipe smoker yourself, hence choosing to make pipes, or is it more of a cool hobby of yours making these pipes?
No - I used to roll my own - I tried a pipe once but could never keep the bloody thing lit, but I always liked the idea of a pipe especially the Sherlock Holmes calabash pipe (which he never actually used) which is why I made the steampunk version (see web site) and it escalated from there.
 
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