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Another probably simple one

Ok i obviousley havnt researched it enough then. As i thought u could still just buy coils for them.

Just to clarify some nomenclature here:

RTA = Rebuildable Tank Atomiser
RDA = Rebuildable Dripping Atomiser

These atomisers require you install your own coils. You can buy coils (just the pre-coiled wire) but you will still have to install and wick them yourself. Most people just buy a spool of wire and make the coils themselves by winding the coil around a drill bit/dowel/rod of some sort, either by hand or using a tool called a coil jig. It's not difficult to learn rebuilding, but it does require some time and practice. Rebuilding is much cheaper than buying coil heads and gives you much more flexibility in tailoring performance to your own preferences.

Then you have tanks that take stock coil heads, which you just buy and screw in - in this format, they are not called Rebuildable. Many of these tanks also have what is generally called an RBA (Rebuildable atomiser) section, which is a basically a small build deck that you screw in to convert the tank into an RTA. These tanks are good for learning to build, because if/when you get frustrated with building, you can screw in a stock coil and use that until you fancy another go at the RBA section. I am not aware of any dripping atomisers that accept stock coil heads.
 
Cool iv been looking at videos. I have been recommended an SXK Kayfun V5 Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer. How do i go about choosing what coil to attempt to build? And where do i find the maximum constant amp output of my mod?
 
Just to clarify some nomenclature here:

RTA = Rebuildable Tank Atomiser
RDA = Rebuildable Dripping Atomiser

These atomisers require you install your own coils. You can buy coils (just the pre-coiled wire) but you will still have to install and wick them yourself. Most people just buy a spool of wire and make the coils themselves by winding the coil around a drill bit/dowel/rod of some sort, either by hand or using a tool called a coil jig. It's not difficult to learn rebuilding, but it does require some time and practice. Rebuilding is much cheaper than buying coil heads and gives you much more flexibility in tailoring performance to your own preferences.

Then you have tanks that take stock coil heads, which you just buy and screw in - in this format, they are not called Rebuildable. Many of these tanks also have what is generally called an RBA (Rebuildable atomiser) section, which is a basically a small build deck that you screw in to convert the tank into an RTA. These tanks are good for learning to build, because if/when you get frustrated with building, you can screw in a stock coil and use that until you fancy another go at the RBA section. I am not aware of any dripping atomisers that accept stock coil heads.
Cool iv been looking at videos. I have been recommended an SXK Kayfun V5 Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer. How do i go about choosing what coil to attempt to build? And where do i find the maximum constant amp output of my mod?
 
Cool iv been looking at videos. I have been recommended an SXK Kayfun V5 Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer.

Currently my favourite RTA.

How do i go about choosing what coil to attempt to build?

This has a lot to do with personal preferences and experimentation. Have a play on the coil wrapping tab here: http://www.steam-engine.org/

You'll probably want to hit around 1-1.5 ohms

And where do i find the maximum constant amp output of my mod?

Maximum amp draw depends on what your battery is rated at - what battery do you have?
 
I think you should get a billow V3. It's in your budget, very very easy to build and wick and will fit on that.

small note: if you do end up upgrading in time, your little 40w device will become a good friend. I have a older coolfire and use it to build on, and because it's small it's handy when you need to wrench the top off a stubborn RTA.
 
Im not sure the mod is an eleaf istick tc40w

Actually, I was being slow, you don't need to worry about the amp rating. It has a built-in Li-Po battery, which will be safe to use up to the max 40W of the mod.
 
@learnincurve what do you mean wrench haha that sounds bad. I will have a look into the billow v3 cheers! @danb so i only need to worry bout amp rating when its bigger mods with removable batteries, is that right?
 
@stephenjallsop it's when you do a very silly thing and screw in a tank oo tight and then realise that when you try to take it off all you are doing is spinning the airflow round and round. So you have to take up the airflow and wrench the bugger off lol

You only need to worry about amps on mechanical mods, if you have a regulated device (which you have) the chip in it won't let you blow yourself up.
 
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