Mech Mods and Ohms

[RingO123]

Also, here are my batteries.

 

[oldhippydude]

Ok run up my batteries on that chart by Mooch. I think mine is a different one, so I'll update you all then. It's CDR is 15, and my coil is 0.3 ohm. It is below the CDR.

If in any doubt that the cell you have is exactly the same as the ones Mooch tested, then you can not tell what it is you have. See the mooch video posted earlier. With a rewrap unless it is from a trusted vendor who do their own testing like @Ben fogstar you can never be totally sure.

I would order a couple of new batteries with a min of 20a for the sort of build you are talking about now and higher cdr if you think you will be going anywhere near the 20a limit in the future.

I personally use 20a cells even though my builds are in the 1ohm range with the lowest I build being about 0.8 ohm so In theory I would have plenty of headroom with a 10a cell. I personally see no point in pushing a cell anywhere close to its limits.

 

[oldhippydude]

As to whether your mech is a good or a bad clone, it would take a better man than me to tell from a picture.
If it screws in and out smoothly, with not too much play in the threads and it does not feel crunchy when you push it, and it springs back out imediately and smoothly, and it all looks well made when dismantled, then it might be an ok one.

 

[RingO123]

If in any doubt that the cell you have is exactly the same as the ones Mooch tested, then you can not tell what it is you have. See the mooch video posted earlier. With a rewrap unless it is from a trusted vendor who do their own testing like @Ben fogstar you can never be totally sure.

I would order a couple of new batteries with a min of 20a for the sort of build you are talking about now and higher cdr if you think you will be going anywhere near the 20a limit in the future.

I personally use 20a cells even though my builds are in the 1ohm range with the lowest I build being about 0.8 ohm so In theory I would have plenty of headroom with a 10a cell. I personally see no point in pushing a cell anywhere close to its limits.

Could you link me some other batteries? I have another pair that say Samsung on, and I bought out of a shop called Socialites I belive. Here are what they look like. Not sure If I belive they're genuine.

 

[oldhippydude]

I believe the original SMPL mod was designed for button top batteries and may have battery rattle with flat top batteries, requiring a battery spacer. I'm not sure if this is an issue with more recent clones, however. Why is battery rattle a problem?

You may be correct, but I think you are thinking about the 4nine.
Certainly My clones would not have enough internal length for button tops, with flat top samsung 25R the button is only recessed into the tube by 1mm or 2mm

 

[Simon G]

Could you link me some other batteries? I have another pair that say Samsung on, and I bought out of a shop called Socialites I belive. Here are what they look like. Not sure If I belive they're genuine.

Samsung 25R's .... why do you think they aren't genuine?

 

[oldhippydude]

Could you link me some other batteries? I have another pair that say Samsung on, and I bought out of a shop called Socialites I belive. Here are what they look like. Not sure If I belive they're genuine.

All I can say is that looks correct to me.
If the pos top has white insulator and the metal pos connector has three rather than four tabs or any other number disapearing under insulator.
Then they are not definitely fake to my eye.
Mooch video again- if he can not tell from a picture because some fakes are so good, then there is no way I am going to try.

 

[speedfreek67]

You may be correct, but I think you are thinking about the 4nine.
Certainly My clones would not have enough internal length for button tops, with flat top samsung 25R the button is only recessed into the tube by 1mm or 2mm

I was probably thinking of this I saw when I was looking for an authentic.

"*For Tanks With a Short 510 Post, it is Recommended to Use a Button Top Battery"

https://www.thevaporemporium.com/product-p/eds-smpl.htm

 

[oldhippydude]

I was probably thinking of this I saw when I was looking for an authentic.

"*For Tanks With a Short 510 Post, it is Recommended to Use a Button Top Battery"

https://www.thevaporemporium.com/product-p/eds-smpl.htm

Makes sense.
Not sure I have used anything short enough for that to be possible.
Certainly worth knowing.

Just tested with a button top and the button is just proud of the tube so increased risk of accidental firing of the mod.
With a 510 a couple of ml shorter, it would work.

I live and learn.
Thanks

 

[Cliffyboy1962]

When it comes to batteries, nobody is going to give you a reassurance that the batteries you have or will ultimately purchase are safe or OK for use in any mod. The reason is nobody actually knows for sure that the battery sat in front of them is genuine or fake. If one of your batteries where to be a fake, and one of us said they look OK, go ahead and use them and then they failed and injured you, we would feel responsible.

When it comes to batteries it's a problem that you, and you alone own.

We all do what we can to minimise the risk by getting our batteries from what we consider to be trusted sources. It's as close as you can get to actually knowing what is under the wrap.

I went to a vape shop once, all proud about my new Fogstar batteries with their fancy fogstar wraps and the elder vaping statesman said "very nice and all but with that fancy wrap, how do you know one of the wrappers working at Fogstar hasn't made a mistake and put the wrong battery under that wrap? They are only human after all" I get all my Fogstars now with no added wraps. He had a fair point.