Hi, and Im sorry if you might have thought my earlier post was a little over the top, but we care about other people who vape and always want to help them whilst making sure they are vaping as safely as possible.
You asked if you needed to know anything else. I would suggest you need to know exactly why you have to do all the things you listed above. Why shouldn't you screw the tank on too tight? Why should you leave headroom between the amps your build will draw and the CDR of your battery? Etc etc. There are usually multiple reasons for each point you listed.
Also, as has already been said, you need to know the ins and outs, the particular characteristics of the mech you are using.
For instance, I believe the original SMPL mod was designed for button top batteries and may have battery rattle with flat top batteries, requiring a battery spacer. I'm not sure if this is an issue with more recent clones, however. Why is battery rattle a problem?
Most mechs use various methods to deal with the variability in battery length and more importantly 510 length that leads to battery rattle, and how the mech does that usually defines how you go about changing your batteries and fitting your RDA.
It is usually good practice to screw the RDA to the hybrid top cap before introducing your battery to it, but it all depends on the mech.
Mechs have different types of switch too, which needs to be taken into account. Some use magnetism to repel the battery away from the switch, pressing the battery against the 510. If you adjust the button for a short throw, then take off the RDA without removing the battery, then replace the RDA with one with a longer 510, you can end up in an autofire situation.
If you drop your mech the 510 can dent the battery cap, leading to possible arcing and a short circuit.
It pays to know this stuff.
