What's new

Dry burn the coils or not?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Some people change it when they notice the flavour is a bit off. Me personally, I usually do it when I can be bothered, which I think is probably about once a week for each of the tanks I use. I don’t really notice the flavour going off ever to be honest, but I’llnopen the tank and if it looks a bit manky I might put a new coil in.

I’m sure I could probably get longer out of them. But then I make diy juice which has less flavour than most other people use, I think.
 
I find my cotton outlasts my coils, but then again I'm using superior Jellyfish cotton.
 
No, I’m not saying it isn’t safer, but I am saying it’s still potentially unsafe. I found the article I was talking about above. I read the article and decided not to dry burn any coils, as it has no real advantage to me anyway. It’s easier for me to put a new one in.

http://www.ecigarette-research.org/research/index.php/research/research-2015/212-db

Yeah, I've read it. But I've also seen the amount of vapour produced from brand new coils. I have no problem with it as long as it's done responsibly and with moderate heat.

Seems like I need to know basics stuff first. So when to change a coil and a wick? I know it depends but give me some idea as I am new to self build setups.

It really depends on you. If you feel the flavour has dropped noticeably or it's not performing well then it's time to change.
 
Yeah, I've read it. But I've also seen the amount of vapour produced from brand new coils. I have no problem with it as long as it's done responsibly and with moderate heat.

But you can clean the wire with alcohol or even hot water and a bit of cloth. I’m sure Farsolinas and the Portuguese guy have also seen the smoke that comes from new coils, yet they still recommend not to dry burn, and to clean the wire with alcohol if you really must clean it.
 
But you can clean the wire with alcohol or even hot water and a bit of cloth. I’m sure Farsolinas and the Portuguese guy have also seen the smoke that comes from new coils, yet they still recommend not to dry burn, and to clean the wire with alcohol if you really must clean it.
A lot of doctors recommend you don't vape at all. At the end of the day the practice is never gonna be 100% safe. I could certainly use alcohol. But I have no evidence to show this entirely gets rid off residue and oils from manufacturing processes and sufficiently penetrates complex fused claptons. So I use the method I know works and I use it moderately. And I am personally satisfied with that.
 
Swagged from somewhere web like.

Temperature Ratings:

The maximum operating temperature refers to the highest temperature the wire can handle without sustaining damage. In practical applications, this is where you will see the most difference between the wires.

Nichrome 80 has a melting point of about 2,462 °F while Kanthal has a melting point of about 2,732 °F. While in practical applications, you are very unlikely to see a temperature that high. What that means for you though is that Nichrome does have a tendency to sag if it is dry fired too heavily. It is highly recommended to feather the button as you're breaking it in.



Resistance (ohms):


Resistance is affected by volume, diameter, and the length of the wire.

Thinner wire has higher resistance than thicker wire. Craig always tells us "Think of it like a pipeline. The bigger the pipeline (thicker wire) the easier it is to move through it (lower resistance).

The longer the section of wire, the higher the resistance.

Nichrome 80 has a lower resistance per length compared to Kanthal, meaning it will heat up faster. Great for mech mods and people who don't like ramp-up time.



Specifications:

Nichrome 80

  • Melting Temperature: 1350°C (2462°F)
  • Maximum Operating Temperature: 1200°C (2192°F)
  • Density: 0.2979 lbs/cubic in.
Kanthal A1

  • Melting Temperature: 1500°C (2732°F)
  • Maximum Operating Temperature: 1400°C (2550°F)
  • Density: 0.256 lbs/cubic in.



Conclusion:


The wire you like is going to vary from person to person. The benefits of Kanthal are it is more sturdy, it can take more heat, and a lot of people find it easier to wrap with because it stays in place better. Nichrome 80 heats up faster, loses its heat faster, and doesn't contain iron. Nowadays, some people are even mixing the two in advanced builds like claptons, aliens, etc.
 
Swagged from somewhere web like.

Temperature Ratings:

The maximum operating temperature refers to the highest temperature the wire can handle without sustaining damage. In practical applications, this is where you will see the most difference between the wires.

Nichrome 80 has a melting point of about 2,462 °F while Kanthal has a melting point of about 2,732 °F. While in practical applications, you are very unlikely to see a temperature that high. What that means for you though is that Nichrome does have a tendency to sag if it is dry fired too heavily. It is highly recommended to feather the button as you're breaking it in.



Resistance (ohms):


Resistance is affected by volume, diameter, and the length of the wire.

Thinner wire has higher resistance than thicker wire. Craig always tells us "Think of it like a pipeline. The bigger the pipeline (thicker wire) the easier it is to move through it (lower resistance).

The longer the section of wire, the higher the resistance.

Nichrome 80 has a lower resistance per length compared to Kanthal, meaning it will heat up faster. Great for mech mods and people who don't like ramp-up time.



Specifications:

Nichrome 80

  • Melting Temperature: 1350°C (2462°F)
  • Maximum Operating Temperature: 1200°C (2192°F)
  • Density: 0.2979 lbs/cubic in.
Kanthal A1

  • Melting Temperature: 1500°C (2732°F)
  • Maximum Operating Temperature: 1400°C (2550°F)
  • Density: 0.256 lbs/cubic in.



Conclusion:


The wire you like is going to vary from person to person. The benefits of Kanthal are it is more sturdy, it can take more heat, and a lot of people find it easier to wrap with because it stays in place better. Nichrome 80 heats up faster, loses its heat faster, and doesn't contain iron. Nowadays, some people are even mixing the two in advanced builds like claptons, aliens, etc.
I think pulsing or "feathering" is absolutely the way to go. There is absolutely no need, in my mind, to glow your coils excessively.
 
A lot of doctors recommend you don't vape at all. At the end of the day the practice is never gonna be 100% safe. I could certainly use alcohol. But I have no evidence to show this entirely gets rid off residue and oils from manufacturing processes and sufficiently penetrates complex fused claptons. So I use the method I know works and I use it moderately. And I am personally satisfied with that.

But Farsolinas and the Portuguese metallurgist aren’t doctors and both vape, so I’d be more likely to follow their advice than a doctor that would rather I still smoked. But fair enough, it’s each person’s choice, to do what they think is best with the info available.
 
I think pulsing or "feathering" is absolutely the way to go. There is absolutely no need, in my mind, to glow your coils excessively.
Tbh youre probably right.
I do pulse them initially to get them heating evenly then during rewick to get the gunk off them.
This is not really to burn it off but to dry it so my little wire brush can brush them clean.
 
But Farsolinas and the Portuguese metallurgist aren’t doctors and both vape, so I’d be more likely to follow their advice than a doctor that would rather I still smoked. But fair enough, it’s each person’s choice, to do what they think is best with the info available.
Is he not Dr. Farsolinas? Does a metallurgist not have a PhD? And do you really know a doctor who would prefer you to smoke? :tongue:

I have no problem with anyone not wanting to dry burn their coils. As you said, each to their own. :2thumbsup:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom