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How To re-wick and re-coil a Vision

OK, I have found the problem. I read a passage in liberty flights like "Over tightening of the replacement heads in to the cartomizer body/central column may cause a short. Please do not use excess force when screwing in any cartomizers/atomizers." This is said for Vision Vivi Nova atomizers and just have the same built with mine. Now I have to only buy good resistance wires and already bought :)
http://goo.gl/nFX33

Only three questions I have now:
* Is it normal that the whole atomizer gets hot?
*
...and don't forget to subtract lead resistance.
What do you mean with "lead resistance"?
*Is it problem that the wraps of the coil touch each other?

Thanks in advance, have a nice day...
 
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OK, I have found the problem. I read a passage in liberty flights like "Over tightening of the replacement heads in to the cartomizer body/central column may cause a short. Please do not use excess force when screwing in any cartomizers/atomizers." This is said for Vision Vivi Nova atomizers and just have the same built with mine. Now I have to only buy good resistance wires and already bought :)
http://goo.gl/nFX33

Only three questions I have now:
* Is it normal that the whole atomizer gets hot?
*

What do you mean with "lead resistance"?
*Is it problem that the wraps of the coil touch each other?

Thanks in advance, have a nice day...

No, nothing to do with coils.
When using a meter to check your coil resistance, first touch the probes together and read the resistance shown. That is the resistance of the leads and you need to subtract that from the reading you get from the coil to get your real coil resistance.

I find over-tightening doesn't cause shorts, it pushes the positive post up and so I don't get good contact, so I have an open circuit until I push the post back down a bit.
Over tightening can cause the central post in an ego battery to be pushed down or to one side, down means no contact, one side means a short on the battery.
 
Thank you AnnaLaw very much;
I measured the coil's resistance that I tried to do yesterday and it was about 1,2 ohms (5 wraps). Today I tried to do a new one and this time I made 14 wraps and measured about 2,9 ohms resistance. But still the same problem. I took some pictures here:

View attachment 4720

View attachment 4721

As you can see, the legs of the coil are getting hot too and melting the rubber and they are shorting immediately. What did I miss here? :banghead:

PS: There was no sleeve in the atomizer when I dissambled it.

EDIT: In my second try I did it, my insulation was wrong:grin2:. But this time, when I try to vape with EGO battery, battery always blinks. When I tried with a 3.7 li-on battery, it vapes but atomizer gets too hot. Is it normal that the whole atomizer gets hot?

My atomisers get warm to hot, but I do use a vamo at 10 watts or lavatube at 4.5 volts. I remember low resistance atomisers on an ego getting hot ass well.
Yot can get heat-resistant insulation, a cloth-like tube, but you have to get the right diameter. I came across it in my work and I didn't order parts so can't give any idea what it was, only the same as the bit my friend pulled out of a clearo head.

What do you mean with "lead resistance"?

Explained in the post before. An example, my very cheap meter has a lead resistance of 0.4 ohm, so if it measures a coil at 1.2 ohm in fact that coil is only 0.8 ohm... too low unless you vape at around 3 volts.
 
Hi
do you replace the woven sleave

You dont have to, but make sure your coils legs aren't touching. Pull them taught after you fit the grommet back on. if you pre make your coil then feed the wick through it, heat the coil after wrapping it.
 
Hi
i have followed your instructions to the letter many times my results are not good i get a fair amount of vapour but it tasts like rubbish i use 015 wire and wrap 4 times the ego gets very hot and i have no flavour should i do more wraps for the coil (help) i have no way of testing resistance

many thanks jjl
 
Hiya,
Great post. Very informative indeed! I was actually looking on ebay for ego clearomiser's and came across a "dual-hole, wickless" clearomiser which i think was (mistakenly), called a CE5. I've looked everywhere online to find these but can't seem to find any. The seller was in the USA so i wondered if those type are not yet available in the UK. Anyway, after seeing this post i've been inspired to have a fiddle and get the bits and pieces together to have a go myself.

Thanks again for a great post. :worship:
 
Well, pleased to report i've had a nice little pressie of some wick and wire from our very nice postie this mornin', so i'll be giving this walkthrough a thorough testing very very soon. I'm a bit apprehensive to say the least. Good job i've got two clearo's in case i totally mess this up. Will be sure to report back once i've either succesfully created a new coil or created a monster! LOL. :eeek:
 
Hiya,
Great post. Very informative indeed! I was actually looking on ebay for ego clearomiser's and came across a "dual-hole, wickless" clearomiser which i think was (mistakenly), called a CE5. I've looked everywhere online to find these but can't seem to find any. The seller was in the USA so i wondered if those type are not yet available in the UK. Anyway, after seeing this post i've been inspired to have a fiddle and get the bits and pieces together to have a go myself.

Thanks again for a great post. :worship:

I have a couple of (sealed, not easily rebuildable) CE5s. There is no visible wick or coil, just a tube with holes in it, but I'm sure the tube does contain a wick and coil somewhere. It works, performs, the same as other clearos.
 
Sounds interesting AnnaLaw, did you buy them from here in the UK? I've not come across any that are named as "wickless" in any way. I've not seen any images of any that look different to the clearo that i have that has a visible wick inside either. Very strange indeed..... :anyone:
 
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