How To Protank and evod rebuilding

[Whistler]

Ok so i am sure there are a few of these out there already, but after chatting to another member about Protank heads i thought i would take a few pics the next time i rebuilt. This is also my first step by step tutorial. I must point out that I do not claim this is the right way or the best way, it is just my way.



Ok so first i laid out everything i am gonna use. The head, of course, some 3mm wick from Terry on here (thanks bud) some 0.2 kanthal, and my pliers (yes they are overkill but i love them, and finally my pin (from mrs Whistlers sewing kit, shhhhhhh don't tell her)

Then, i removed the post with my man pliers.

Teased out the positive pin and bung from underneath. This is where i found two scorch marks on the bung, so decided to twist the legs to lower the resistance of the coil legs.

Then laid the wick on the pin and wrapped the wire over 4 turns , usually brings me 1.4-1.5 ohms.

Now i folded the legs in half and twisted them together. By pinching the top of the legs near the coil and turning the end. Hopefully this will stop the scorch marks on the rubber bung, might be good practice to do this all the time, as i have heard it mentioned many times already.

Next up is the obvious, feed the legs down throught the hole and mount the coil. Personally i find it easier to leave the pin in place for the next few steps.

Next, grab a hold of the bung and place over one of the legs, and push the fiddly little beggar back into place. You should have one leg between the bung and head, the other leg sitting in the middle.

Now grab the positive pin and push that back into the bung. This is the easiest bit :hehe!:

All back together now, nice, just snip both legs as close to the bung/pin as possible. Personally i then push the outer (negative) leg up to keep it as far away from the pin as possible, while poking the positive leg as flat to the positive pin as possible. Trial and error taught me that bit due to crazy inconsistant resistance readings. Also makes it loook a bit neater.



A quick screw into the protank base to check the resistance on the vamo. OOooooooh 1.4 bang on. Lovely

Then put the centre post back in and there ya go, one rebuilt kanger/evod head.

As i said i am sure there are many other guides out there, most of them being videos. I thought i would do it in pictures becuase you dont have to faff with the pause button all the time and rewind. Also you poor souls dont have to suffer my "narrative" lol

 

[Mark]

What a great post! Though without pics it does sound a bit like a bad translation of the Kama sutra

Next, grab a hold of the bung and place over one of the legs, and push the fiddly little beggar back into place. You should have one leg between the bung and head, the other leg sitting in the middle.

 

[Whistler]

I try and make my posts interesting mark lol

 

[whirlybird]

Whistler, thanks for that, a really helpful post for those of us who are just thinking about starting to recoil! Can you explain why it might be advantageous to fold and twist the legs? I haven't seen that done on any of the (2!) vids I've watched.

 

[Whistler]

Whistler, thanks for that, a really helpful post for those of us who are just thinking about starting to recoil! Can you explain why it might be advantageous to fold and twist the legs? I haven't seen that done on any of the (2!) vids I've watched.

During that recoiling I noticed scorch marks on the rubber bung from the previous coil. When you double over and twist it doubles the resistance of the coil, I.e if a single leg gets hot at 3.5 volts for example a twisted leg will get hot at higher voltage, meaning when you vape normally, I vape my protanks and evods at 3.7-4.0 volts for example, it is only the coil getting hot and not the legs.

 

[Pedaldog]

Thanks Whistler. I might have a go at that in a few days so look out for explozhuns in Lancaster!"

 

[Whistler]

Thanks Whistler. I might have a go at that in a few days so look out for explozhuns in Lancaster!"

If essex is still here, i am sure lancaster will be safe lol

 

[Digicig]

Well presented Pictorial Whistler

 

[trueblue75]

May have a go at this thanks.

 

[Tmax]

Twisted wire will lower the resistance SURELY !!!!!!

Thats why twisted coils run sub-ohm !!! - Its like using thicker wire, which means the current flows easier through the wire (so LESS resistance) which means hotter!!

The way to stop the grommet getting fried would be to run no-res wire from the terminals (Centre post / grommet) to the start of the coil, but who wants to weld/twist no-res/res wire on something this small?

Apologies if I have got this wrong???