What's new

What Metal Type For DNA Mods

What metal type coils would you use in a DNA mod?

  • Kanthal

    Votes: 10 33.3%
  • Ni80/90 etc

    Votes: 9 30.0%
  • SS316L etc

    Votes: 23 76.7%
  • Titanium

    Votes: 2 6.7%

  • Total voters
    30
SS316L for TC in a DNA mod..... If your not using a TC why pay for a DNA mod at all?

Kanthal in a non DNA mod or mech because you can just burn off the coil when you re-wick and clean your attie.

Biggest disappointment ever was when I first started using SS and found out you have to change your coil/wire every time you clean your attie and re-wick instead of just burning it off to clean it and using the same coil/wire for 6 months to a year.

Because the accuracy , smoothness and potency of a wattage only DNA vape is worth the money. Nothing else touches it.
 
SS316L for TC in a DNA mod..... If your not using a TC why pay for a DNA mod at all?

Kanthal in a non DNA mod or mech because you can just burn off the coil when you re-wick and clean your attie.

Biggest disappointment ever was when I first started using SS and found out you have to change your coil/wire every time you clean your attie and re-wick instead of just burning it off to clean it and using the same coil/wire for 6 months to a year.

If you want to clean SS wires it can be done easily enough. Put the mod in wattage - use a lower power setting so the wires heat but DON'T go cherry red, clean as normal - it may take a little more time and effort but if it means you don't bin the coils after a short use it's worth it.. If you can heat SS wires to check for hot spots you can heat to clean. As long as you don't take liberties and heat them so they glow like the sun you'll be ok.

If you're not sure - wait until evening, turn off light, glow at low wattage - you will see coils go a very dull red, stop firing, clean as normal. A bit of a faff, but it can be done
 
If you want to clean SS wires it can be done easily enough. Put the mod in wattage - use a lower power setting so the wires heat but DON'T go cherry red, clean as normal - it may take a little more time and effort but if it means you don't bin the coils after a short use it's worth it.. If you can heat SS wires to check for hot spots you can heat to clean. As long as you don't take liberties and heat them so they glow like the sun you'll be ok.

If you're not sure - wait until evening, turn off light, glow at low wattage - you will see coils go a very dull red, stop firing, clean as normal. A bit of a faff, but it can be done


Yep I've tried that but just seem to find I get a lack lustre flavour after a re-wick when I try to re-use an SS coil, so to avoid disappointment I now change my steel each time. wire after all is very cheap, and I am lazy. After reading your reply I may try re-using a coil on a re-wick one more time. When I clean a Kanthal coil I just heat the coil up and drench in water from a running tap, heat the coil up again until it's dry, blow on it and repeat this process until the wire is clean and free of the dried up juice gunk and I can see the wire as metal coloured etc.

Any advice on cleaning SS coil? So as not to heat it up as much? Also, I don't do contact coils but slightly separated so don't need to check for hotspots when using a coil for the first time. (And for TC you shouldn't use contact coils.)
 
Yep I've tried that but just seem to find I get a lack lustre flavour after a re-wick when I try to re-use an SS coil, so to avoid disappointment I now change my steel each time. wire after all is very cheap, and I am lazy. After reading your reply I may try re-using a coil on a re-wick one more time. When I clean a Kanthal coil I just heat the coil up and drench in water from a running tap, heat the coil up again until it's dry, blow on it and repeat this process until the wire is clean and free of the dried up juice gunk and I can see the wire as metal coloured etc.

Any advice on cleaning SS coil? So as not to heat it up as much? Also, I don't do contact coils but slightly separated so don't need to check for hotspots when using a coil for the first time. (And for TC you shouldn't use contact coils.)

I heat and dip the coils in a cup of water because I'm wary about drenching the mod under a tap. I have to do it several times compared to Ni80 or Kanthal but I'm happy with the results - but I vape wattage only, maybe that makes a difference - I like a good bit of heat during vaping so maybe the build up on my coils is crusty crud instead of oily gunk?
 
Because the accuracy , smoothness and potency of a wattage only DNA vape is worth the money. Nothing else touches it.


Think I'm missing something.... as far as accuracy goes I start low and increase power until I get the vape I like. I ignore the value of the numbers on the screen.... Smoothness... Ok I agree on that one I've certainly noticed different mods are nicer on the same dripper... but thats also why I have mechs in my collection of vape stuff they do seem to have the smoothest of all my mods including DNA. They are just a pain when using certain batteries they are great at 4.2 Volts but I'm taking them out and recharging them when they get down to 4.04 Volts. and I'm not sure what potency is if it's not power.

I do agree though when It comes to buying a new MOD... It's either a mech or DNA (usually squonk either way) these days.
 
I heat and dip the coils in a cup of water because I'm wary about drenching the mod under a tap. I have to do it several times compared to Ni80 or Kanthal but I'm happy with the results - but I vape wattage only, maybe that makes a difference - I like a good bit of heat during vaping so maybe the build up on my coils is crusty crud instead of oily gunk?
It sounds similar or even the same as what I do... the mod is obviously pointing downwards so as not to get wet and its just the coils in the stream of water. I'll try again next time I re-wick and see what happens.
 
I have only just started doing this but if i am changing Cotton i take the old Cotton off the build deck and put the Tank through the Ultrasonic Cleaner which clean them up a treat, be wary of Geekvape Red Tanks because it will strip the paint off.
 
Think I'm missing something.... as far as accuracy goes I start low and increase power until I get the vape I like. I ignore the value of the numbers on the screen.... Smoothness... Ok I agree on that one I've certainly noticed different mods are nicer on the same dripper... but thats also why I have mechs in my collection of vape stuff they do seem to have the smoothest of all my mods including DNA. They are just a pain when using certain batteries they are great at 4.2 Volts but I'm taking them out and recharging them when they get down to 4.04 Volts. and I'm not sure what potency is if it's not power.

I do agree though when It comes to buying a new MOD... It's either a mech or DNA (usually squonk either way) these days.

Each to their own. It think it comes from the PWM days when you could feel the rattle in every high wattage Vape going aside from the DNA’s, but even still I’d still argue that it’s more consistent now as much as it was then.

I too ignore the numbers on the screen to an extent although starting too low on a low resistance coil in airy atty proves mostly a fruitless experience. However 100 watts feels like 100 regardless of the DNA I throw it on. If I want the same from two Voopoo Drags then it isn’t the same and each is different. The only board that comes close in consistent power production for me is the Omni, and I include the Yihi boards in that because I don’t rate them. At all.

Smoothness and consistency is what kept me vaping when I moved into drippers, and the DNA boards are the absolute best at that. I was really just making a point that you’d said that if you don’t use TC a DNA is somewhat a waste - it isn’t.
 
Each to their own. It think it comes from the PWM days when you could feel the rattle in every high wattage Vape going aside from the DNA’s, but even still I’d still argue that it’s more consistent now as much as it was then.

I too ignore the numbers on the screen to an extent although starting too low on a low resistance coil in airy atty proves mostly a fruitless experience. However 100 watts feels like 100 regardless of the DNA I throw it on. If I want the same from two Voopoo Drags then it isn’t the same and each is different. The only board that comes close in consistent power production for me is the Omni, and I include the Yihi boards in that because I don’t rate them. At all.

Smoothness and consistency is what kept me vaping when I moved into drippers, and the DNA boards are the absolute best at that. I was really just making a point that you’d said that if you don’t use TC a DNA is somewhat a waste - it isn’t.


TBF TC vaping is a unicorn to me, never seems to hit the spot after a few attempts I pretty much pa pooed Tc.

Before Dovpo I enjoyed the legend in watts and the Gen in pulse mod.

However I’ve since realised that a DNA board in my personal opinion is quicker at ramp up giving a quicker deeper hit.

And replay which to my very poor knowledge is a type of hybrid TC and Watt were I think it combines the two principles and I do enjoy Replay what ever it does.

I’ve since tried my gen and legend using same tank and build and a DNA device is sooo much better.

(OK going to what for a detailed description of replay that will probably embarrass me)

:3dmad:
 
I've got replay on all my regulated mods, regardless of how long I leave them without batteries inside they remember I like vaping at 60 Watts when I turn them on.

Ok. I'll just get my coat...
 
Back
Top Bottom