rta nightmare - suggestion on a nice rta

[Mr Ripple]

It looks pretty straight forward with the build deck like the dvarw and pocket.
Post a pick of your build and I'm sure folks will be able to help more.

https://www.fasttech.com/product/8774500-ka-v7-nano-styled-rta-rebuildable-tank-atomizer

 

[rew]

It could be poor quality kanthal wire with some kind of residue on it. I get mine from Stealthvape and don't have problems.

 

[Mordacai]

roflol, sorry to ask but are you using the same wattage for Kanthal and Stainless Steel?

 

[roflol]

roflol, sorry to ask but are you using the same wattage for Kanthal and Stainless Steel?

More or less yes, but there isn't this big difference:
- kanthal d, 5 turns and 12 w should be the best airflux.
- ss 316, 5 turns on 3 mm coil OR (another test) 7 turns on 2 mm coil and 14 w should be the best airflux.

 

[Mordacai]

roflol, could you confirm the wire gauges for both the Kanthal D and SS316 please.

As I am aware that Kanthal alloys have a higher resistance than Stainless Steel alloys, so Stainless Steel requires more power to reach temperature than Kanthal.

So I've been trying to use the calculators on steam-engine.org to try and establish your coil resistances, so we can try and work something out.

 

[roflol]

Well, maybe I found the problem, but I'm not sure and so I ask you. In my life I only tried kanthal d 0,28 and SS 316 0,36. The first one I bought it on ebay 3 years ago from germany, no brand, and the second one is a good brand one. Well, last days I tried again the SS ( I don't use it much because GA are too high so is not comfortable for RTA coils ) with 2mm diameter coil and 7 rounds, and cotton remains clear. I changed cotton and still clear.
Maybe the problem is the kanthal d. I can't find anymore that auction, but maybe you can understand what is the problem in this wire. I don't really know if having a brand wire is better that a wire without brand, because if matherial is the same, I don't think it should change much. But here we go, if a wire (that seems working perfectly because of the correct ohm of coil) could still damage cotton? If yes, for which cause?
Or the SS 316 is just a better wire for coils because it make less dirty the wire itself while vaping? Or for the quality of metal that allow lower/higher temperatures?
Thanks!

Kanthal d = 0,28, ss 316 = 0,32.
Well, I suppose I were right in this message. Now vaping with ss is pleasure and coils last longer. But hey! Case is not ended. For example my question at the end of my quote: how is it possible that impurities makes cotton so dark and so easily?
And then, thinking about some health problem in the last years, regarding eyes and allergy (high IGE), could it be the wire the cause of my health problem? Note that I (wrongly) did dry burn for several months on the kanthal d. If we add also the problem about the wire itself (that made the cotton earlier), it could be a big problem.

 

[Mordacai]

It is possible to have a sensitivity to a component of an alloy.

I know that SS430 is Nickel free Stainless Steel, which is useful if you have a sensitivity to Nickel.

And Kanthal is composed of Iorn, Chromium and Aluminium. Personally I don't like it and I think it tastes weird.

But does your mod to TC/TCR/Temperature mode, it's worth experimenting with when using Stainless Steel.

And here is the link to where you can find the information about dry burning possibly being bad for you, as well as lots of other vaping related discussion and research.
http://www.ecigarette-research.org/research/

 

[roflol]

Well, in conclusion, if I use SS coils and I do small activations for dryburn, i have no risk (or almost ), because ss releases particles at 1400 C right?

 

[Mordacai]

It's something that still has to be confirmed either way, but to err on the side of caution you could use ethanol to clean wire before coiling.

Also if using TCR/TC/Temperature mode, definitely no dry burn. As it changes the structure of the metal, thus changing the TCR value.

 

[roflol]

It's something that still has to be confirmed either way, but to err on the side of caution you could use ethanol to clean wire before coiling.

Also if using TCR/TC/Temperature mode, definitely no dry burn. As it changes the structure of the metal, thus changing the TCR value.

I didn't understand your message:
- you mean to put some ethanol on wire before coiling, and then make it dry (with small activations?), only before coiling or after wicking again? why ethanol?
- is it really like that? I can't use tc if I dryburn? Also if coil isn't hot, after dryburn the ohm value isn't correct? If yes, how to clean coil (without weird taste) instead of making dry burn with tc?