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Lavatube 4.0 F1 readout help

Mark

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Jul 18, 2012
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Ok I got this for my girlfriend who is down tomorrow. I've been trying it out in a few bits and pieces . I had the original one and wasn't that impressed because the low amp limit (2.5)limited what it could do.
This is a 3.5 A limit, looks smarter IMO and having seen a friend using one I decided to go for it for fourty notes.
Disappointingly it doesn't like the vivi novas as once screwed on ( this has a floating centre pin by the way which sounded like a good feature) there is no air flow . I solved this by screwing on an ego plinth, the ones people use to tidy up the look of a tank on an ego battery. It has small cut outs around the edge which enable air to flow :)

But

It doesn't hit anywhere near as hard as the VV Gripper for a start at supposedly the same voltages. This doesn't itself necessarily concern me because we all know unless you have a Provari VV mods aren't always accurate and some are known to push out more voltage than the readout would suggest.

My main beef is that some things it simply won't fire at all. In particular the mini Nova, or at least ONE of them. It's brand new, freshly filled and works smoothly on an ego and on the Gripper. The LT simply won't fire and when you do the 5 click of the fire button to check the ohms allI get is 'F1' on the display. I've tried unscrewing a little. I've changed the battery. I've tried all voltages. Just get 'F1'

Ive had a quick look on the site where I got it and on google but can't find what this means. I never got that with my original LT.

Is it a short or something? Anyone know? It works fine on all my other battery's/mods.
 
Hmm, thats a tricky one.. deffo put the accessories through the paces, test them out on every thing you have and then retry on the lava...maybe a 510-510 adaper can sort it?
 
I had the prob with my LT.

I eventually worked out that the centre pin needed raising to make contact with the base of the tank, I achieved this with a very technical toothpick manoeuvre that involved teasing the pin up gently at alternating sides.

Please note this only seems to work the once and then you have to do it again. I carry a couple of toothpicks in my little liquid bag (not as gay is it sounds), and rejigger where reqd.

TBH I just leave the RDA screwed on as tight as it will go now...

Plus I've never got the LT to give a constant resistance reading on a tank, prob due to the slightly dodgy connection. Sigh, I suppose you get what you pay for. I'm sure this wouldn't happen to a provarist ;)

Good luck!
 
Darth it's a mini LT so different batteries.
ive swapped batts but in any event it works with other atties
OS it has the floating pin so the lifting the pin trick doesn't work. It springs back to its first position as you remove the attie.
KMS the vivi (which is a 2.8, perfect for a VV device) works on the Twist, the Juno, the Gripper , the Scorpy etc
Anyone know what F1 actually is meant to signify ?
 
On other mods it means a short somewhere...which would be the faulty connection between the two... dont you read destructions? (sorry thats what my hubs and kids call them!) :P
 
On some mods F1 means its under 1.3 ohms. But the LT 4.0 is supposed to be able to handle atties as low as 1.0
 
Found this on another lavatube mod and I'm guessing they all use the same electrical components?
Short Circuit Protection:-
The display will show the below error code when there is a short circuit:
1. F1: resistance for the heating coil of cartomizer is bigger than 0.5R, or smaller than 1.3R
2. F2: resistance for the heating coil of cartomizer is smaller than 0.5R
 
Cheers guys. Makes no sense for a VV device not to work with a 2.8 atty that works on any other device. I'll email the vendor. Cheers
 
Have you tried measuring it with a multimeter? I have no idea what you do with one, but it sounds like the kind of answer that makes people think you know what you're talking about :D
 
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