Have my first mech mod! Let the endless question begin!

[Lee Murphy]

So the mod is here (mmk abs clone / leg hg2).. first impressions are not good! Put a .3ohm super Clapton build in a goon v1.5 and it's pathetic at best.. ramp up was shocking, vaper production appalling.
I'm going to have to rethink it all in my head.
I was thinking of going single coil in the goon, 5 wraps of ss316 fused Clapton at around .225ohm..
Will it heat up quicker with the one coil??

Also the top hybrid plate thing is now stuck on the base on the goon..

 

[mattyk2010]

I wouldn't be putting a .2 build on that cell mate its only rated at 20amp you will be on the edge of your cells rating I would get some Sony vct5a cells and maybe step away from big fancy coils and just run with some 22g SS or flat ni80

 

[EmbraSewerRat]

http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/brochrome-nichrome-80-flat-wire

Use this instead of fancy coils that have a frak tonne of metal to heat up. Far more useful. And far more satisfying.

Next get better batteries - VTC5A or LG He6.

Next, get a set of steel tweezers and a mole wrench. Grab the bottom of the atty, you should use either a thick rubber band or a vape grip!, hold the atty in the wrench and pop the tips of the tweezers into the holes of the hybrid cap. With a bit of exertion it should come off. Maybe a wee squirt of contact cleaner down the threads before you go all brute force and ignorance.
Had this problem with my Endless and it's hybrid cap, but I have a good set of tweezers. And hefty wrench.

 

[Lee Murphy]

http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/brochrome-nichrome-80-flat-wire

Use this instead of fancy coils that have a frak tonne of metal to heat up. Far more useful. And far more satisfying.

Next get better batteries - VTC5A or LG He6.

Next, get a set of steel tweezers and a mole wrench. Grab the bottom of the atty, you should use either a thick rubber band or a vape grip!, hold the atty in the wrench and pop the tips of the tweezers into the holes of the hybrid cap. With a bit of exertion it should come off. Maybe a wee squirt of contact cleaner down the threads before you go all brute force and ignorance.
Had this problem with my Endless and it's hybrid cap, but I have a good set of tweezers. And hefty wrench.

Will do that!

 

[Lee Murphy]

I wouldn't be putting a .2 build on that cell mate its only rated at 20amp you will be on the edge of your cells rating I would get some Sony vct5a cells and maybe step away from big fancy coils and just run with some 22g SS or flat ni80

For now I'll try a single fused Clapton at .3 - 2.5ohm and see how I get on.. I should only be taking 16-17A out the battery's with that setup I'll try a few things out.. I have ss316 in 26 24 and 26 twisted..
Calculating it all out i want to keep above .24ohm as that will be a 17A draw.. how much head room do you lot like to have??

 

[Various Reviews]

Yes when it comes to mech mods it runs in ohms law, which means the coil runs straight off the battery so you cxant regulate wattage. A .3 ohm coil at a full charge (4.2) volts will only push out 59 watts at 14 amps and with all the wire in the claptons you will have a tremendous ramp up time with great heat dissipation. With mech mods you need to build lower. Kanthal isn't necessarily the greatest for a mech mod, low ohms, and ramp up time. I suggest a 24 g ni80 wire. Ni80 heats up faster and build to a .15 ohm with a high amp load battery like the Sony vtc3 or an lg hb6 (pink). Also like I was saying its 59 watts at 4.2 volts so since it is running straight from the battery it will slowly reduce voltage so at the nominal voltage (usually 3.7v) it will be running a wattage of 45 which is even lower. Read up on ohms law, battery safety, and calculators. Steam engine is great http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.html and mooch has a treaty battery chart for amp loads https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...ngs-picking-a-safe-battery-to-vape-with.7447/

My recommended build for kanthal on a mech is a dual parallel 6 wrap, but you will have a bit of ramp up time. Like I said go with ni80 and build to .15-.2 ohms. Good luck my friend!

 

[Lee Murphy]

Yes when it comes to mech mods it runs in ohms law, which means the coil runs straight off the battery so you cxant regulate wattage. A .3 ohm coil at a full charge (4.2) volts will only push out 59 watts at 14 amps and with all the wire in the claptons you will have a tremendous ramp up time with great heat dissipation. With mech mods you need to build lower. Kanthal isn't necessarily the greatest for a mech mod, low ohms, and ramp up time. I suggest a 24 g ni80 wire. Ni80 heats up faster and build to a .15 ohm with a high amp load battery like the Sony vtc3 or an lg hb6 (pink). Also like I was saying its 59 watts at 4.2 volts so since it is running straight from the battery it will slowly reduce voltage so at the nominal voltage (usually 3.7v) it will be running a wattage of 45 which is even lower. Read up on ohms law, battery safety, and calculators. Steam engine is great http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.html and mooch has a treaty battery chart for amp loads https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...ngs-picking-a-safe-battery-to-vape-with.7447/

My recommended build for kanthal on a mech is a dual parallel 6 wrap, but you will have a bit of ramp up time. Like I said go with ni80 and build to .15-.2 ohms. Good luck my friend!

Thanks for that man! Solid advice!

I will get some ni80 off wireandstuff next week and give it a shot..
I think I have become accustom to power on tap from my regulated mod..
So I have worked with what I have and have put a single ss316 fused Clapton in it (2x26g 32g wrap)
And it's a lot better but still a bit limp.. I use steam engine regularly to plan my builds and can hit the numbers I'm looking for with no issues. I have read countless post on battery safety and ohms law and I under stand it all in therory.. now I just need to put it all to practice!
One thing that confuses me is I know the voltage the battery is giving me and can calculate the wattage a coil will be pulling on the mech mod.. yet if I set my redialled mod to the same wattage/voltage it's hitting so much harder than the mech.. something is lying to me..

 

[Various Reviews]

Thanks for that man! Solid advice!

I will get some ni80 off wireandstuff next week and give it a shot..
I think I have become accustom to power on tap from my regulated mod..
So I have worked with what I have and have put a single ss316 fused Clapton in it (2x26g 32g wrap)
And it's a lot better but still a bit limp.. I use steam engine regularly to plan my builds and can hit the numbers I'm looking for with no issues. I have read countless post on battery safety and ohms law and I under stand it all in therory.. now I just need to put it all to practice!
One thing that confuses me is I know the voltage the battery is giving me and can calculate the wattage a coil will be pulling on the mech mod.. yet if I set my redialled mod to the same wattage/voltage it's hitting so much harder than the mech.. something is lying to me..

OK so this is where it differs, when you are running an unregulated device such as a mech mod, you are using ohms law, which you know about extensively as well as battery safety which is great that you are mindful of all of this as we all should be before getting into these categories of vaping, now the reason why your mod is hitting harder than your mech is because the regulated device does not run on the same properties as ohms law, they run on watts law. The reason why they are regulated mods is because there is a regulator inside the chipset of the device (dna200, rx200, YiHi, etc) and the batteries are connected to that regulator instead of the coil directly. Because of this the regulator is able to take the amp load from the battery and reroute it to the coil to push out the programmed amperage needed for the resistance of the coil. Since all of this is programmed in the chipset, it's able to calculate everything that is needed to produce that hard satisfying hit that we always get from our trustee regulated device. Mech mods don't have all of these features to create that kind of hard hit so easily. Therefore we need to adjust accordingly with ohms law to fulfill the certain vape you are looking for. The question is really what you are looking for in a vape and what you enjoy wattage-wise.

 

[newbmark]

Thanks for that man! Solid advice!

I will get some ni80 off wireandstuff next week and give it a shot..
I think I have become accustom to power on tap from my regulated mod..
So I have worked with what I have and have put a single ss316 fused Clapton in it (2x26g 32g wrap)
And it's a lot better but still a bit limp.. I use steam engine regularly to plan my builds and can hit the numbers I'm looking for with no issues. I have read countless post on battery safety and ohms law and I under stand it all in therory.. now I just need to put it all to practice!
One thing that confuses me is I know the voltage the battery is giving me and can calculate the wattage a coil will be pulling on the mech mod.. yet if I set my redialled mod to the same wattage/voltage it's hitting so much harder than the mech.. something is lying to me..

Your regulated mod uses it's electornics to keep the output voltage constant for the specifiedwattage, you get a continuous vape irrespective of how charged the battery is. You have none of this on a mech, just a battery, your coil and the tube and all of the connections. On a mech cleanliness of all threads and switch (inside and out) is essential to get a good vape.

Your battery will also "sag" when you fire your mod, the battery struggles to get all of the power out and, as such the voltage will drop. Some batteries are better for this than others, the amp rating isn't the only thing you need to look at. As has been said above, I use nothing but Sony VTC5A in mechanical mods, they are arguably the best compromise of capacity, Amp rating and providing minimal voltage sag.

If you look at the review here from Mooch your batteries (albeit at 30A) sag quite considerably, you're not getting 4.2V at your RDA when you hit fire, more likely to be closer to 3.6V at 20A.

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...ch-retest-results-a-great-20a-battery.714112/

Couple that with using a build with less metal (you don't really need, nor want, anything special in a mech).

 

[Various Reviews]

Your regulated mod uses it's electornics to keep the output voltage constant for the specifiedwattage, you get a continuous vape irrespective of how charged the battery is. You have none of this on a mech, just a battery, your coil and the tube and all of the connections. On a mech cleanliness of all threads and switch (inside and out) is essential to get a good vape.

Your battery will also "sag" when you fire your mod, the battery struggles to get all of the power out and, as such the voltage will drop. Some batteries are better for this than others, the amp rating isn't the only thing you need to look at. As has been said above, I use nothing but Sony VTC5A in mechanical mods, they are arguably the best compromise of capacity, Amp rating and providing minimal voltage sag.

If you look at the review here from Mooch your batteries (albeit at 30A) sag quite considerably, you're not getting 4.2V at your RDA when you hit fire, more likely to be closer to 3.6V at 20A.

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...ch-retest-results-a-great-20a-battery.714112/

Couple that with using a build with less metal (you don't really need, nor want, anything special in a mech).

Preach it mark! Lettem know!