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Dissasembly of a very faded Rebel SX550J?

Jok77

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Joined
Oct 16, 2019
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8
Hep people,

So I have a Rebel SX550J (3d printed nylon, dual 18650, yihi chip with bluetooth) and it has faded so damn much I hate the look of the thing. Contacted esauce who were most helpful but wanted £90 to put on a new housing...erm no thanks.

I've done a bit of research in to dyeing 3D printed parts...my only option being to immerse it in a boiling solution of Rit Dyemore. Obviously I'd rather take the board etc out first. Now it looks fairly straightforward but I'm not messing about with it until I can can get some 'idiot proof' instructions...it's a 200 dollar mod! Ok, I paid nowhere even near that as I picked it up second hand but still...

Help anyone? Pretty please? Somebody out there must have had this problem...

Thanks all
 
That does seem rather steep indeed but you're essentially paying for quality. It all depends but if i were you, I'd stick with what you've got as long as it works properly, if you want to change the cosmetics then the ball is in the manufacturer's court and you may have to bite the bullet of £90. It's so annoying but that's the cost of cosmetic retouching of high end vape mods.
 
the only problem i can see you having like you said is taking the board out so some desiodering and after dying the mos is resoldering it all back up and as for dyeing the mod it may not end up being the colour you want it tobe. i got some torquiose rit dye to dye a mod and it came out blue not a torquoise or a light green colour like it should have been but after some use the dye was starting to fade again so i dyed it again and its doing it again
 
You need to check what it has been 3D printed from, a lot of filaments won't take boiling water without warping, expanding or contracting.

For example even PLA warps in hot washing up water, I think ABS is more temperature friendly.

Are there no cleaning products that will revive it?
 
the only problem i can see you having like you said is taking the board out so some desiodering and after dying the mos is resoldering it all back up and as for dyeing the mod it may not end up being the colour you want it tobe. i got some torquiose rit dye to dye a mod and it came out blue not a torquoise or a light green colour like it should have been but after some use the dye was starting to fade again so i dyed it again and its doing it again

I've done a bit of soldering on various non mod projects but to be honest, I'm not sure where to start with this one. I'd be happy dying it black at this point. Or even taking it to a professional to get it re-dyed but not sure where to start on this one. It doesn't look too complicated. Two screws at the bottom of the board and a nut at the bottom of the 510 connector. Getting the battery contacts out without destroying them looks like a mission though.

How did you go about disassembling yours? A diagram would be fantastic :)

Thanks for the reply
 
You need to check what it has been 3D printed from, a lot of filaments won't take boiling water without warping, expanding or contracting.

For example even PLA warps in hot washing up water, I think ABS is more temperature friendly.

Are there no cleaning products that will revive it?

I must admit that I know little about the 3D printing process but it's nylon.

I'm not sure that any kind of cleaning product would help really apart from sanding it down to the base colour which I presume is white but I think that may be even more of a disater waiting to happen!
 
That does seem rather steep indeed but you're essentially paying for quality. It all depends but if i were you, I'd stick with what you've got as long as it works properly, if you want to change the cosmetics then the ball is in the manufacturer's court and you may have to bite the bullet of £90. It's so annoying but that's the cost of cosmetic retouching of high end vape mods.


I just can't justify spending £90 on 3D printed nylon which is half the cost of the mod new nearly. I'd rather buy a new one that takes 21700s with the Ally coating which doesn't fade with the evolv chip rather than Yihi...but it's such a waste to leave it as it is. It bugs me every time I pick it up Even just making it look a little less patchily faded I could live with.

I'm sure the disassembly can't be that hard with a little guidance :)
 
I must admit that I know little about the 3D printing process but it's nylon.

I'm not sure that any kind of cleaning product would help really apart from sanding it down to the base colour which I presume is white but I think that may be even more of a disater waiting to happen!
Nylon should be fine, I didn't realise it was already dyed, do you have a photo of the mod, might have more idea of what to do with it.
 
I've done a bit of soldering on various non mod projects but to be honest, I'm not sure where to start with this one. I'd be happy dying it black at this point. Or even taking it to a professional to get it re-dyed but not sure where to start on this one. It doesn't look too complicated. Two screws at the bottom of the board and a nut at the bottom of the 510 connector. Getting the battery contacts out without destroying them looks like a mission though.

How did you go about disassembling yours? A diagram would be fantastic :)

Thanks for the reply

the mod i done was a mech squonker so just contacts and 510 to take out nothing as hard as you have todo. taking a rough guess you will have to undo the 510 peice were the wire is soldered on for the pos wire then the nut holding the 510 to take that off and then the black neg wire will be on a brass washer which is under that nut holding the 510 in place and depending on wat fire button is fitted you may need to unsolder two wires but it could also be a onboard switch so no soldering will be needed then just take the board out and you have a empty shell ready to dye
 
Nylon should be fine, I didn't realise it was already dyed, do you have a photo of the mod, might have more idea of what to do with it.

Thanks for your help!


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