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A guide on calculating amp load using a regulated mod.

@mi1984 From Mooch

This is an great underrated cell that I am rating at 19A/3000mAh. The datasheet lists the max continuous current at 30A but that's only if you stop the discharge when the cell reaches 80°C, way before a continuous discharge has finished. The true continuous current rating from Sony is 15A. But at that current level the temperature is 72°C, about 6°C-9°C cooler than other batteries at their rating. This is why I feel it is underrated, like the Samsung 30Q, and why I have given it a 19A rating. It runs at a slightly higher voltage than both the 30Q and HG2 though.

The 30A rating is mentioned but not a true CDR apparently and I'm not exactly sure what that second sentence means but clearly Mooch doesn't rate it at 30A in his tests.

basically gets too hot in a continuous discharge, for 30amp, but runs below/cooler at the continuous for a 15amp, so a "goldielocks" zone of 19amp
 
basically gets too hot in a continuous discharge, for 30amp, but runs below/cooler at the continuous for a 15amp, so a "goldielocks" zone of 19amp

yeah, I get that ... what I don't get is (ignoring Mooch's 19A rating for the moment)

the datasheet lists the max continuous current at 30A but that's only if you stop the discharge when the cell reaches 80°C, way before a continuous discharge has finished. The true continuous current rating from Sony is 15A.

"the true continuous current rating from Sony is 15A."
"datasheet lists the max continuous current at 30A"

that's just two contradictory statements and both come from Sony?
 
yeah, I get that ... what I don't get is (ignoring Mooch's 19A rating for the moment)

the datasheet lists the max continuous current at 30A but that's only if you stop the discharge when the cell reaches 80°C, way before a continuous discharge has finished. The true continuous current rating from Sony is 15A.

"the true continuous current rating from Sony is 15A."
"datasheet lists the max continuous current at 30A"

that's just two contradictory statements and both come from Sony?

yeah, hmm, maybe its to do with a certain application that the batteries are designed for, ie they do the quoted max amps ran in that particular "device", whatever it is and they are only ran to a certain voltage, maybe?, who knows ay,:D
25r or vtc5a should be used if anyone is considering they are near the max using these
 
@simong - more to do with measured temperatures I believe, 80°C is a bit hot so inadvisable to continue at 30A
when Mooch, Torchy, Ecolux, Fogstar, HJK etc. test they all use slightly different safety levels, a test by Mooch may stop because he feels cell is getting way too hot so doesn't test to destruction
this is why you'll see slightly varying advice or conclusions
 
15A is the sony rating ... Mooch rates them a little higher at 19A ... they are a 3000mAh battery, no way are they 30A
Have a look at fogstar web site, 30A there, and yes, mooch, that's the one, read his review on them. So are they any better than 30q or HG2/4?
Another question, on 0.2ohm Coil in regulate mod (therion 133), what will be "safe zone" to vape at. Never gone above 60W, dripper getting too hot and start burning me lips :18::54:
 
Have a look at fogstar web site, 30A there, and yes, mooch, that's the one, read his review on them. So are they any better than 30q or HG2/4?
Another question, on 0.2ohm Coil in regulate mod (therion 133), what will be "safe zone" to vape at. Never gone above 60W, dripper getting too hot and start burning me lips :18::54:

Read the first post slowly and carefully. All your answers are there.
 
Have a look at fogstar web site, 30A there

Just had a look, although I wasn't doubting that's what you bought them as ... it also says VTC5's are 30A on there which is um .... 'debatable' too... unless you are happy really pushing your batteries beyond safe limits. This is what Mooch says VTC5's

"Temperature rose to 96°C at 25A. That's way too hot for decent cycle life and significantly increases the chances of the cell venting. This is a 20A cell. Do not run it above 20A."


so, um ..... yeah not 30A.
 
Just had a look, although I wasn't doubting that's what you bought them as ... it also says VTC5's are 30A on there which is um .... 'debatable' too... unless you are happy really pushing your batteries beyond safe limits. This is what Mooch says VTC5's

"Temperature rose to 96°C at 25A. That's way too hot for decent cycle life and significantly increases the chances of the cell venting. This is a 20A cell. Do not run it above 20A."


so, um ..... yeah not 30A.
Agree mate, that's why I'm asking. I rather sound/look stupid on here than have a half of my face blown off like that moron on Facebook
 
Great inital write up and very concise explanation. Every vaper should read this. In fact every person working in a vape shop should KNOW this.
Can we have a new TPD directive to get all vape shop staff tested before they are allowed to work and give out advice?
After searching for something else I stumbled upon another forum (ok I know... traitor! But hey), anyway I read this article https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...bout-sub-ohm-and-latest-vv-vw-devices.611315/ about the science behind getting big clouds without super low ohm builds. It was an interesting read, but basically the guy suggests using a bigger (more wraps) and higher ohm coil +1ohm with above normal power which would give more surface area and heat up quickly. Only problem would be the wicking.
Anyway, in this guys examples he is more dependent on the voltage he is getting over the amps being drawn.
Or is he just talking nonsense? Would love to know what you guys think on this.
 
Made great sense and helped me understand for the most part my only question is the voltage cut off.

I presume the 3.1v is where the mod should show low battery and not fire and if the battery is 3.2 or higher volts then the load would be less as the division (formula) is greater

p.s. Thanks again for taking the time to write this all out
 
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