This was my first attempt at sealing the connection pin to prevent condensation / eliquid seeping onto the circuit board. It turned out to be a lot easier than expected so I thought I would share my effort as a tutorial. Difficulty Rating: Beginner - no special skills required I take no credit for this fix, inspired by @domejunky advice in a previous post. **DISCLAIMER - Do this at your own risk, warranty (for what it's worth) will be void** Here's what you will need to complete the job: SEALANT - I used Fernox LS-X from Screwfix around £6 a tube but you can use other NON PERMANENT bonding agents, some contact adhesives will do the job equally well. **DO NOT use a permanent adhesive like Superglue as you will not be able to strip it again if it needs future work. The hammer is in case it all goes Pete Tong, fortunately I never needed it SOLDER FREE METHOD. Now here is what I expected to use, my previous strip down required the pin to be un-soldered but as it turned out I managed to strip and seal it without the need for soldering, older versions might require soldering but try this method first. First thing you will need to do is remove the following Allen screws: Once the screws are removed take off the cover plates, this is what you should see: With the SXK chipset the screen cannot be removed so you will need to gently push/pull it through as per photo: (If you have the DNA version the screen can be unclipped so no need to remove the cover, I will be doing a DNA version tutorial when I seal my other BB) Once everything is loose, lever up the circuit board carefully, as you release it and the USB board wiggle it until the connection pin is exposed, see photo, this should NOT be forced, once it is slightly exposed I used ceramic tweezers to pull the wire up, be careful not to pull it too hard, it should freely slide out as per the photo. **IF IT WILL NOT EASILY COME OUT THEN ABORT THIS METHOD - SOLDERING WILL BE REQUIRED** (Again I will be covering the soldering method in the DNA version) Once you have separated the plastic sleeve from the metal pin you are ready to apply the sealant, I applied it with a small modelling paint brush, if you don't have a brush your fingers should do. Apply a reasonable amount, more is better than less as the excess can be cleaned off after (see photo). Once the sealant is applied push the pin back into place while gently putting the circuit board back into place, don't worry if it doesn't sit flush or pops back out for now. Push the screen back through and place it into the recess then fit the switch cover (this is all a reverse of the strip down). (make sure you do the screen before screwing down the main board) Once the screen is back in place wiggle the circuit board and USB board back into position, place the fire button into position ensuring the switch is sat into it's recess then screw it into place, this can be a little fiddly but don't reach for the hammer just yet. Once everything is assembled you may still see the pin protruding, time to push it down and clean off any excess sealant, once it's cleaned off press down on the pin again to ensure it's sat down all the way, you can either hold it for a minute as it bonds or as I did, I placed the Boro Tank in and screwed it down (don't forget to clean off the excess first). Pop your battery in and test everything is working as it should be, then it should be all good to use. In the unlikely event of a 'no atomiser' error check that there isn't any sealant on the pin, clean it off if so and try again. Well that's about it, a job very well worth doing to protect your precious Billet Box board. I hope this guide was detailed enough, any questions or any mistakes you spot give me a shout.