Threaded insert for 3d printed boro mod

[Tom M]

Hi Guys --

Been playing with Autocad Fusion and my 3d printer and have been designing some hybrid billet box/Aspire boxx type designs using 21700 batteries. The original and clone billet box is aluminum and uses the chasis for ground so screwing in the "nut" provides ground for the atomizer. Pretty neat design the more I thought about it.

But, alas, 3d printed plastic is non-conductive. So, I am looking for a threaded insert that can be used to sctew the nut into. This insert can have a wire soldered to it to close the circuit. This is how the plastic SXK BBs do it. Like so:

I am looking for a source for the insert. Billet box threading is 1/2"-20. Preferrably in brass. It is very very thin. Coil inserts likes Helicoil tend to be very thick and too long for this purpose. The SXK one pictured above appears to be flanged at the top.

Does anyone know where to get such an insert or have any other suggestions?

Thank You!

--tom

 

[Loco]

Hi, do you think you could incorporate a hexagonal recess with wire channelling into your mod design? Then you could potentially just use a 1/2"-20 brass nut? These seem to be more available with a thinner wall.

 

[stuartd]

I seen on one of mark Todd's vids the company used a thick peice of copper and threaded it so you could screw your rda onto the mod could possibly work that way if you can't find the thing you need

 

[Tom M]

Thanks for the responses. I have used the hex nut solution before and it does work. Sadly, the thinnest, smallest one I could find is wider than the BB itself. Have tapped very thick copper washers for this as well.

A threaded copper plate would make sense. This could be embedded and secured. The logical extension is to make the entire top of the device metal and let it span the battery negative. This does involve more machining and is beyond my capibility. The Boxx and Sunbox Zero boro both take this approach.

I could buy a copper rod, cut a thin piece and drill and tap it. Would have to find a way to friction fit it within the 3d print and probably create a flange of some sort. Much less machining involved. The insert in the SXK box is really this solution. Just hoping I can find one premade.

I have also considered threading the plastic and using a helicoil insert within the plastic. Then a soldering a wire to it after it has been installed.

--tom

 

[Loco]

Sounds like you have explored most options. Will look forward to seeing what you come up with. I wasn't sure if you had access to tools by your original post. The only thing I could suggest that i've tried, expanding on the nut idea, is that you could sand down two opposite sides fairly easily with brass. Ive slimmed them down to near the threads before, maybe this could work for you.
Id imagine apart from scrounging parts from broken mods, parts like that oem connector would come with a high MOQ even if available.
Anything else I could envision would be like you suggested, having part of the mod body inclusive of a metal plate. Could machining be avoided by just using the metal strip and including the channel for it to run captive within the 3d print design, like within a T slot?

 

[Tom M]

Loco, I am convinced you have given me the correct solution. Grinding/Sanding down a thin 1/2-20 nut is the way to go. Great solution. Got the corners down and then chucked in my drill press and worked it down. Thanks so much.

 

[Tom M]

fyi, this just made an appearance on 3fvape

https://www.3fvape.com/misc/39160-s...el-3-pcs.html?search_query=sxk+bb&results=285

 

[stuartd]

fyi, this just made an appearance on 3fvape

https://www.3fvape.com/misc/39160-s...el-3-pcs.html?search_query=sxk+bb&results=285

The bantam one is abit longer than a bb one which might help him out depending how long he needs it tobe