Mech Mod Switch

[Alastair Paterson]

So recently i bought my self a Collab Parallel Mod by Plan B supply company
However im having a few issues with it
When trying to fire the Mod i find it only seems to fire approx 25% of the time.
So ive sumised there is an Issue with the switch

just to clarify i have tried several RDA's on top with coils ranging from 0.1 ohm to 0.25 ohm and using 2 married Samsung 30T 21700 Cells so i have made 100% sure my cells are cappable of providing the Amps required to fire the RDA's ive been trying to use on it.

With the way the mod is constructed there is a set of wires going from the Positive conections to the switch and then to the 510 pin.
What im trying to find out is if i was to purchase a Momentary switch similar to one of these
https://www.modmaker.co.uk/Mod-Maki...inless-Steel-Switch-With-Flat-Raised-Actuator
would i be able to just desolder the current one and then solder this one in its place.

Im aware i would have to get a micrometer to measure the diameter and lenght of the current switch to make sure the replacement is of the same size.

 

[stevoknevo]

So recently i bought my self a Collab Parallel Mod by Plan B supply company
However im having a few issues with it
When trying to fire the Mod i find it only seems to fire approx 25% of the time.
So ive sumised there is an Issue with the switch

just to clarify i have tried several RDA's on top with coils ranging from 0.1 ohm to 0.25 ohm and using 2 married Samsung 30T 21700 Cells so i have made 100% sure my cells are cappable of providing the Amps required to fire the RDA's ive been trying to use on it.

With the way the mod is constructed there is a set of wires going from the Positive conections to the switch and then to the 510 pin.
What im trying to find out is if i was to purchase a Momentary switch similar to one of these
https://www.modmaker.co.uk/Mod-Maki...inless-Steel-Switch-With-Flat-Raised-Actuator
would i be able to just desolder the current one and then solder this one in its place.

Im aware i would have to get a micrometer to measure the diameter and lenght of the current switch to make sure the replacement is of the same size.

Just watched a video on it, yes, that's the way to go. You wont need a micrometer though as you're not measuring anything that needs that level of accuracy, a ruler will be fine. If you don't feel confident doing it yourself then check out this thread

https://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/.../threads/free-repair-service-for-mods.191301/

 

[Deleted member 54254]

How recent was the purchase? I'd be considering a return if possible.

 

[Alastair Paterson]

How recent was the purchase? I'd be considering a return if possible.

Irc it was just before Xmas, however it will cost 3 times as much to post back to vendor that it will to purchase the correct style switch and swap it out myself
Im just trying to make sure the type of switch im purchasing is correct and will be safe to use on the device

 

[Deleted member 54254]

If it's not cost-effective to return it you could always go with @stevoknevo 's suggestion.

 

[stevoknevo]

Irc it was just before Xmas, however it will cost 3 times as much to post back to vendor that it will to purchase the correct style switch and swap it out myself
Im just trying to make sure the type of switch im purchasing is correct and will be safe to use on the device

Contact Ric at Mod Maker once you have the dimensions of the switch and get his advice - he's a good lad and really knows his stuff, he'll advise on the right switch you need as your cells are capable of 70 amps on a parallel device so you need something that can easily handle that kind of power safely.
Personally I wouldn't be using this until it's checked over properly - I'm not a fan of 'mechs' that use wiring TBH.

 

[Alastair Paterson]

Contact Ric at Mod Maker once you have the dimensions of the switch and get his advice - he's a good lad and really knows his stuff, he'll advise on the right switch you need as your cells are capable of 70 amps on a parallel device so you need something that can easily handle that kind of power safely.
Personally I wouldn't be using this until it's checked over properly - I'm not a fan of 'mechs' that use wiring TBH.

That sounds like a plan tbh, who better than the gent that runs the company I'm considering purchasing the switch from to advise if it is suitable to use in a mech mod and capable of handling upto 47.5 amps considering the cells are in parallel

 

[Dozwold]

- I'm not a fan of 'mechs' that use wiring TBH.

I know this thread is a bit older, but can I just ask for more information on wiring in parallel mods as I wish to get a parallel 21700 squonker mod made. I’m deeply worried about auto firing as I have had this before (but only on mods that seem to have some sort of wiring inside), so are there wiring only on the mechs that have a mosfet of some sort? Are they not supposed to be safer? I can order with or without a mosfet and to be fair, I usually am safe as possible by using married batteries, checking the wraps knowing my builds, testing the RDA on a regulated after rewicking and before using on the mech, etc, so I’m more concerned about autofiring and not being able to get batteries out quick (most customs seem to have individual threading per battery rather than a quick release door.

 

[Alastair Paterson]

I know this thread is a bit older, but can I just ask for more information on wiring in parallel mods as I wish to get a parallel 21700 squonker mod made. I’m deeply worried about auto firing as I have had this before (but only on mods that seem to have some sort of wiring inside), so are there wiring only on the mechs that have a mosfet of some sort? Are they not supposed to be safer? I can order with or without a mosfet and to be fair, I usually am safe as possible by using married batteries, checking the wraps knowing my builds, testing the RDA on a regulated after rewicking and before using on the mech, etc, so I’m more concerned about autofiring and not being able to get batteries out quick (most customs seem to have individual threading per battery rather than a quick release door.

This wiring in this mod in particular is just from the Positve Battery connection plate to the switch and then to the positive pin on the 510.
the positive connection is well and truly insulated from the rest of the mod which is a large billit of milled out Brass, so there is no possible auto fire .
As for the 21700 Parallel Squonker you are looking to have made it all come's down to the desgin and the materials you intend the Mod to made from, im sure the Modder you are going to have build your Mod will keep you right as they would not wish to build anything that could cause anyone any harm.

 

[Dozwold]

, im sure the Modder you are going to have build your Mod will keep you right as they would not wish to build anything that could cause anyone any harm.

Yes, I agree, so far I have noticed that the chaps here seem to enjoy the job as a hobby and are proud of their works and not just doing it just a quick buck money.

Meantime, while I get used to parallel bought a TS from Defiant Designs. I do love it but you really have to be careful with mechs, it’s a triple parallel and I accidentally put in one battery the wrong way with One of them positive facing down and when I tightened it boy the sparks and boom scared the heck out of me. Luckily nothing bad happened, no fire or anything as I immediately and instinctively removed the rda and untightened the battery door but I now check and double check my batteries, their wraps and their positioning before just sticking them all in. may actually get a mosfet when I order a bespoke one just for that extra peace of mind.