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Differences between Authentic and Clone

StuPot

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I like to research things, I'm happy when learning things and one of my latest temporary obsessions is all things Billet Box. I'm mentally cataloging the differences in the authentic and clone boxes and accompanying parts.

Which differences have you Identified so far?

One of the ways I think we can tell the authentic box from the clone is the gap before the R and the groove before it, where it says "Rev.4B~60 or similar. The clone has a bigger gap.

The Boros and other accessories? What differences have you noticed that will help identify which is which?

I thought I knew a sure way of telling an authentic boro from a clone but I was informed on good authority the boro can be a little different from batch to batch.
 
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So I like to research things, I'm happy when learning things and one of my latest temporary obsessions is all things Billet Box. I'm mentally cataloging the differences in the authentic and clone boxes and accompanying parts.

Which differences have you Identified so far?

The ways I think we can tell the authentic box from the clone is the gap before the R and the groove before it where it says "Rev.4B~60 or similar. The clone has a bigger gap.

The Boros and other accessories? What differences have you noticed that will help identify which is which?

I thought I knew a sure way of telling an authentic boro from a clone but I was informed on good authority the boro can be a little different from batch to batch.
It can often be hard to tell. I have a genuine Dead Rabbit RTA yet both terminals and its well are gold plated. Incedentally the well and neg terminal should be chromed.
 
So I like to research things, I'm happy when learning things and one of my latest temporary obsessions is all things Billet Box. I'm mentally cataloging the differences in the authentic and clone boxes and accompanying parts.

Which differences have you Identified so far?

The ways I think we can tell the authentic box from the clone is the gap before the R and the groove before it where it says "Rev.4B~60 or similar. The clone has a bigger gap.

The Boros and other accessories? What differences have you noticed that will help identify which is which?

I thought I knew a sure way of telling an authentic boro from a clone but I was informed on good authority the boro can be a little different from batch to batch.

The colour/finish on the clone boro can be uneven and not a deep rich black.....also the gasket is a slightly different colour, on some I have seen.
 
I only have a clone, but am interested to know the differences.
 
The colour/finish on the clone boro can be uneven and not a deep rich black.....also the gasket is a slightly different colour, on some I have seen.

Yep there is definitely a difference in the gasket.

I noticed a difference here too but maybe all batches really aren't the same.
IMG_20190209_193538%20(1).jpeg
R4BoroBlack__19034.1458487014.1280.1280.jpeg
 
On the subject of Boros I can say that both of our authentic ones have better ones, they feel much more substantial. As has been said the gaskets are deep red. As far as the actual Mod is concerned the threading for the 510 is different on the authentic which means that most all in one Drip Tips won’t fit. The items such as the BBGen Bridge won’t fit in an SXK so be aware.
I can’t give a definitive explanation but the authentic “feels” more substantial :)
 
The biggest difference for me is the body and panels on the authentic are more rounded - this is more obvious to the hand than the eye

The authentics have more lines from machining - particularly on the fire button side. I have a few clones where the doors wobble - so magnets tend to vary more.

We've established here that the positive pin and insulator are a touch more loose on the clone

The authentic Boros have a rubber seal, vs the silicon one on the clone - the glass also has a chamfered edge on the authentic to save wear on the seal

There's differences in the writing - but I haven't really studied them
 
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