What's new

BB DNA Board & Parts replacement

Joined
Dec 23, 2017
Messages
6,128
I'm just working on a Billet Box refurbishment job and I thought I would share the process in case it helps others.

Job No1 is to strip everything down.

BB_DNA_Swap-1.jpg


First thing is to unscrew everything, I've not detailed it all as I've covered up to this stage in the connection sealing tutorial: https://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/...ing-connection-pin-sxk-bb-usb-version.177104/

Except for the battery positive and negative connections, the negative is simple to do as that just unscrews, the positive is a little more tricky, firstly slide it out as much as you can with your thumb, it only slides one way until the brass pin stops it, turn the mod around to the protruding side and you should see a little white or clear tab, with a hobby knife; gently tease it up and out, once removed the pin pushed down and you can slide it all out.

Here it is removed on another job:
Dicodes_Billet_Box-10.jpg


This can be such a pain in the ass as there's often corrosion or brittle wire which can come unsoldered, it's an absolute bitch to clean up and resolder, fortunately on the current job they supplied a new one (phew!)

The negative clip is quite simple but often shows signs of corrosion, it's quite easy to clean up and usually reusable.

This is as far as you can go before getting the soldering iron out but it's worth taking note of the wiring, it's easier to either photograph or video it on your phone for future reference.

For this job I was supplied a selection of brand new parts which is always nice, especially that positive pin! :)

It can prove quite expensive though, the new DNA60 board is the dearest part but the other 'little bits' soon mount up with shipping, the fire switch is often the first to fail so it's worth checking that out before you begin.

BB_DNA_Swap-2.jpg


Next job is unsoldering the old electronics, I will detail that in the next post.

Feel free to ask if there's any questions so far.
 
Nice pictures as usual, and write up. But can i ask what was wrong with the DNA 60 board you took out?
 
Great write up Simon and very useful, for others, me I just send it to you. Cheers :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:
 
Lovely write up. Where do you get a new firing switch. Thanks.

They were bought from here:
https://www.amazingworld.it/categoria-prodotto/billet-box-vapor/accessori-e-ricambi/

Nice pictures as usual, and write up. But can i ask what was wrong with the DNA 60 board you took out?

It was dead as a Dodo, there were signs of heat damage but I couldn't diagnose the fault as no power was getting through, it was sent for a new board replacement anyway.
 
Got to say it is "rare" to see a DNA board give up :)
but they all cant be spot on.
 
Forgot to photograph most of it but it's all finished and working fine, a few minor issues along the way but worth mentioning if it helps others:
  • Up/Down board was 3 wires instead of 4, it's no problem as the ground was shared, so simply omit the 2nd ground wire on the board.
  • DNA board was wider than the bay width so it wouldn't seat fully and you couldn't tighten down the cover, simply shaving a little from the side of the board with a craft knife resolved this.
  • Usually I leave the built in FIRE button on the DNA board as is, but this had a 3rd party cover which forced the button down once clamped, to resolve this I simply pulled the silicone button out with tweezers.
  • Fire button membrane was 0.5mm too wide and didn't fit into the recess properly, easy fix with a slight trim using scissors.
Having mostly new parts really helps, especially the Positive Battery Pin and Fire Button Membrane.

I've been road testing it for a couple of days and all is good.
 
Forgot to photograph most of it but it's all finished and working fine, a few minor issues along the way but worth mentioning if it helps others:
  • Up/Down board was 3 wires instead of 4, it's no problem as the ground was shared, so simply omit the 2nd ground wire on the board.
  • DNA board was wider than the bay width so it wouldn't seat fully and you couldn't tighten down the cover, simply shaving a little from the side of the board with a craft knife resolved this.
  • Usually I leave the built in FIRE button on the DNA board as is, but this had a 3rd party cover which forced the button down once clamped, to resolve this I simply pulled the silicone button out with tweezers.
  • Fire button membrane was 0.5mm too wide and didn't fit into the recess properly, easy fix with a slight trim using scissors.
Having mostly new parts really helps, especially the Positive Battery Pin and Fire Button Membrane.

I've been road testing it for a couple of days and all is good.
Taking the built in fire button out. Does that mean it won't now take mission inners?
 
Back
Top Bottom