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After a bit of advice please

Dezy

Postman
Joined
Oct 5, 2019
Messages
239
Hi just had my main mod start leaking on me, so pulled a semi mech mod out of the draw..

I know nothing about ohms law, but figured as long as I know which way up a battery goes and check the ohms of my build against the battery safety guide to make sure the volts don't go over what the battery is rated for .. then what could possibly go wrong ;)

My question is, what ohms in a single coil build and also a dual coil build do you all try and achieve so your build has a good ramp-up time and produces a good amount of vapour?

Am I right in saying that (within the safety parameters) the lower the ohms the quicker the ramp up? or have I got it totally arse about-face? or is there a sweet spot?

Sorry but better to ask than remain ignorant. lol
 
https://www.steam-engine.org/ is pretty useful if you don't know ohms law by heart. Lower resistance (Ohms) will draw more current (Amps) from your battery, which you should always calculate ohms law as if it is fully charged (4.2V for a single lithium cell) for safety.
 
lol arse about tit sounds about right lol

So Lower ohms requires more amps, so I'm guessing will produce more vapour but will be offset with a higher ramp-up time?

Thanks for the link , looking at that now :)
 
For MTL at least, about an ohm is the sweet spot for me, about 6 or 7 wraps of 28 I think.
 
lol arse about tit sounds about right lol

So Lower ohms requires more amps, so I'm guessing will produce more vapour but will be offset with a higher ramp-up time?

Thanks for the link , looking at that now :)

On a mech a lower ohm coil does not "require" more amps or watts. It just takes them without asking.
The lower res coil does draw more amps to give you higher watts and ramps up faster.
 
When it comes to mech use it is essential to use good high amp batteries - the amp rating is far more important than the mah capacity, and use the highest amp batteries you have for mech use NOT the highest capacity.

Make sure the batteries you are using are genuine Sony/Murata, Molicel, Samsung, LG, Ohm Tech or similar - if you're not sure check to see if Battery Mooch has tested them, if you can't find any info don't chance it.

If you have batteries that quote 2 amp ratings (e.g. 25A/35A) ignore the higher figure - it is a bullshit 'pulse' rating, dishonest re-wrappers put the higher figure because big numbers can persuade the gullible to part with money, but they are NOT better batteries. Personally I wouldn't trust batteries like these as rewraps can have any crappy donor cell hidden under the wrap.

Use an ohms law calculator to check how many amps your build will draw at 4.2 Volts - if you don't go above the continuous discharge Amp rating (NOT a bullshit pulse rating), your batteries are good and the wraps and insulator are in good order you should be fine.
 
Use an ohms law calculator to check how many amps your build will draw at 4.2 Volts - if you don't go above the continuous discharge Amp rating (NOT a bullshit pulse rating), your batteries are good and the wraps and insulator are in good order you should be fine.

I only use batteries from fogstar, either Molice or Samsung so I should be good there. And I always check my build on a regulated mod .. just to be sure ;)

the current build is flat Ni80 @ .22 ohms = 19A so just in the safety area, giving a pretty good vape but ramp up time is a little annoying (normally spoiled with the dna's boost)
 
ahh with regards to how quickly the coil heats up, dumb arse me has only just realised that the gauge of the wire is more important than the ohm's! in my mind, if the ohms were say .26ohms that would heat up quicker than a coil that was .82ohms ... however, I was not taking into consideration the gauge of the wire ..

Just done a coil at .26 ohms on a very thing gauge and it heats up instantly .. my last build was a thick gauge flat wire at .22 ohms and took a hell of a long time to heat.

I'm starting to think I could be too dumb for making my own coils :8:
 
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