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TC and MTL

As @shale84 says, keep it loose. If the cotton doesn't slide in with ease it's too tight for TC. Spaced coils are way better and shouldn't need any treatment beyond a gentle pulse for stainless and a quick single pulse at 600 for the NiFes.
 
Got some NiFe30 from Stealthvape - 29awg - should have got 28awg. 10 wraps comes out at 0.36Ohm. The first coil - managed to burn it when getting rid of hot spots and coils shorting etc - tasted foul. QUOTE]
I just read this properly. You shouldn't be putting any non-TC watts through NiFe30. It's not safe to dry heat. Make spaced coils, single 600F pulse, done
 
I'm always mean with the cotton - been wrapping coils for about nine months now - only half way through my first pack of cotton bacon. Any tips on spacing coils? Or is it just stretch it and hope.
There are lots of vids out there - most on building mega quad Derek coils for cloud chuckers. Nothing for plane simple single coils.
 
I'm always mean with the cotton - been wrapping coils for about nine months now - only half way through my first pack of cotton bacon. Any tips on spacing coils? Or is it just stretch it and hope.
There are lots of vids out there - most on building mega quad Derek coils for cloud chuckers. Nothing for plane simple single coils.
Stretch them on the rod then push them back together and it should produce nice spaced coils.
 
I asked Evol vapour (evil?) what a DNA board would do if a hot spot or short reduced the coil resistance during 'bedding in'. There reply was:

A spaced coil is always best for TC purposes or you will get what you mentioned, the wraps shorting together and throwing off the readings.

I would recommend to not bed the coils in at 600F or any other temperature but to simply use a spaced build and use the coil. Definitely do not glow the coils outside of TC mode as this tends to temper the coils and change the TCR.

The board will always attempt to limit the coil temperature at the set point to the best of its ability even with a bare or dry coil. The accuracy depends completely on the quality of the wire and how close it is to the TCR being used, and the resistance stability of the 510 connection.
Thanks,

Evolv, Inc

Hang on a moment - what about annealed wre? That's been heated to a nice red glow and slowly cooled. Yes the TCR will have changed - as long as it's close the the expected value who cares?

So what about cleaning? I'll try a 'cleaning profile' - say 450C with no pre-heat and the power set to say 10W. Then a quick clean with a wet Q-tip (cotton bud). Will have to wait a few days before I can try it.

Is there or should I say there should there be an idiots 'guide to TC, MTL and coil building'? There is a hell of a lot of crap advice out there in WWW land.
 
That's pretty much the advice you received here except for the single pulse at 600F. All you get with that is the tiniest puff of smoke for half a second which burns off any oil and skin cells from handling the wire. I find it gets rid of the funky taste that's present otherwise but you can get away without it. I suppose an ultrasonic clean would get it done if you don't feel comfortable with that. @danb @Tubbyengineer, thoughts?
 
I asked Evol vapour (evil?) what a DNA board would do if a hot spot or short reduced the coil resistance during 'bedding in'.

So what about cleaning? I'll try a 'cleaning profile' - say 450C with no pre-heat and the power set to say 10W. Then a quick clean with a wet Q-tip (cotton bud). Will have to wait a few days before I can try it.

Is there or should I say there should there be an idiots 'guide to TC, MTL and coil building'? There is a hell of a lot of crap advice out there in WWW land.
A quick run at 600f as decribed below by @Mr Numpty should see off most muck on a wire,

... DO NOT TRY DO THIS UNLESS YOU ARE PREPARED FOR THINGS TO GO RAPIDLY PEAR SHAPED AND ACCEPT THE RISK AS YOUR OWN...​

It is possible - if you understand the materials well enough to dry burn even Titanium - but for most people it's simply not worth the risk, NiFe30 is much more forgiving and will stand up to a reasonable amount of heat - You don't need to get any coil glowing like the Eddystone lighthouse, just the first hint of a dull red glow will get rid of any crap without destroying the coil - I know it works, I've done it myself - many times...
That's pretty much the advice you received here except for the single pulse at 600F. All you get with that is the tiniest puff of smoke for half a second which burns off any oil and skin cells from handling the wire. I find it gets rid of the funky taste that's present otherwise but you can get away without it. I suppose an ultrasonic clean would get it done if you don't feel comfortable with that. @danb @Tubbyengineer, thoughts?

Ultrasonic baths work OK but both together is the best approach...

I'd suggest taking the time to read through these threads - they should be enlightening...
https://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/...threads/tc-accuracy-and-wire-selection.87131/
https://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/...ing/threads/working-with-titanium-wire.82830/
https://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/...reads/dispelling-the-tc-tc-coil-myths.107726/
https://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/...e-mods-and-devices/threads/wicking-101.87085/
 
For cleaning a .5Ohm anealed SS coil - 5W at 280 degrees C is adequate. Takes 3 to 4 seconds to get to temperature. Nothing glows - and the gunk burns off. Done.
 
I do a very gentle dry burn with NiFe wires, just as @Tubbyengineer describes. I reckon I normally replace the coil after 3-5 cleanings (but I don't keep track carefully). I'd say it's definitely better practice to rebuild every time, but I can't be arsed most of the time.
 
Now I'm really pissed off. Before you buy any mod check all reviews - including the 'problem' ones. I don't agree with the 'if it's cheap it must be crap' argument - but in this case it's true.
Mod resistance started to creep up - now it's over 0.4 Ohms. Cleaned 510 connector etc - still the same. Checked battery conns - same. Checked the mod resistance on Escribe - crap.
Does anyone know what size Torx screws hold the casing on?

The alternative is to try and return it ... This is the reply I got from FT:

We apologize for the inconvenience caused.
The supplier requires proof of defect for warranty. Would you mind provide us a video to show the problem as it seems a photo can't help in this case?
Since our ticket system don't support attaching video, please upload it via Youtube website first and post the link here.
Note that for company compliance reasons, please include the respective order number, while don't include any reference to F*****.com or your contact information in the video.
After receiving your video, we will proceed to resolve the case for you soon.
If you have any questions, please feel free to let us know. Thank you.


So much for Hcigars warranty. The camera on my phone is bust. WTF do they expect me to video anyway?
Almost got another - managed to cancel it before it shipped.
 
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