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Can't get warm vape ti coils tfv4 ipv3li

So just to try and help apes I shall list my set ups and tell you what I have found, it may help you.

I have 4 devices that I use in TC mode. A IPV4s, Kamry 40w TC, Koopor Mini and a homemade mod with a 50W Alien board. So you can see that they are all very different in the way of board manufacturers and only two of those have specific settings for Ti (IPV4s and Koopor).

I use 3 RDA's (all clones) across all the devices and all work well with Ti or Ni. A Hobo v3, Velocity and a CEO. I also use Lemo2, Kayfun V4 (with modded spring and A/F pin), Subtank Plus and two Subtank Mini's (I only use the RBA deck in these).

I started to use Ni with good results, then went on to Ni/Kanthal hybrid (which was better still) and have now gone on to using Ti exclusively. I only use two gauges of Ti, 26 and 24awg depending on being single or double coil and the size of the deck..I always aim at building between 0.2-0.25ohms and use Muji.

Watts or Joules settings. If you think about it, this setting only affects the heat up time of the coil, so in theory you should be able to use the highest setting of the device....in theory! Air flow and juice flow comes into it. If you use too low a setting with an atty with high air and juice flow (Velocity RDA for example)..the mod tries to supply the voltage to enable the coil to reach the set temperature, but the air and juice flow is that great that it cools the coil...it struggles to reach temperature by the time you have finished sucking on the atty. The result is a unsatisfactory vape, so you might now turn down the temp. Well that works doesn't it? Sort of, you now get a better vape but it is cold! The low temp you have now selected has at last enabled the coil to draw enough amperage to reach the wattage you selected.

So, for me...this is what I do. On a new coil I set the wattage or joules 25% short of the max (the Koopor being an exception, I set that at normal). On the Ti enabled devices I set the temp at 400f, on the others I set the temp at 300f. I break in the coil..if the vape is too cold or hot I adjust the temp slightly. I find the break in period is about 1/4 of a tank or 5 dripper refills (RDA's tend to break in quicker). After the breaking in period I raise the wattage up to max (this is what we want, there is no point tooting on a coil when it is at 50f!) and adust the temp further until I get the desired vape.

I find that as the coil builds up deposits then I have to raise the temp settings. On a broken in coil my temp is normally around 420f (320f on a non Ti specific device) and will typically end up at around 470-480f (340f- 360f on a non Ti specific device) before the coil neads cleaning and rewicking.

I clean my coil/RBA sections in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with water, half a cup of vinegar and a few drops of washing up liquid.

Some may think...."What a load of bollox" .... others it may help, take what you like from it, I hope it helps some apes.
 
Also I will add that some people are saying that their devices pulse and blame the modulation of the board in the device, this is not always the case! The vape pulsing can be caused by the temp control..it is constantly hitting your preset limit and is in fact nothing to do with the device bucking the current or boosting voltage.

You will often find that if you get a fluttering vape that by raising the temperature the stability of the vape increases! A common mistake is to reduce the wattage only to find the vape quality is adversely effected. Don,t forget, most high power mods (even those that use parallel batteries) are limited to 100 watts in T/C Ti mode, so even with a 0.38ohm coil will only in general be running at 6.18volts at just over 16amps so voltage/amperage modulation will rarely happen in T/C mode.
 
Ive just revisited the TFV4 on the 3Li but this time with the RBA.
.35ohms at 40w, half airflow and I prefer it too the crazy coils.
 
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