Getting the best from a mech' squonker.

[Tubbyengineer]

That's exactly what I was thinking when you posted - but didn't want to!

First set of readings - battery not fully topped up, but that didn't matter.
Battery voltage= 4.06v
Voltage at 510 =3.62v That's too big a loss?

Switch is bonded into the resin on the mod and appears to be a sealed unit - none the less, a squirt with contact cleaner around the fire button and a bit of working there was some slightly dark residue to be mopped up.
The wiring connections to the 510 were gunked up with old juice - more cleaner and a cotton bud had it looking better but not perfect. When I've a little more time I'll do a better in depth clean-up.

Next set of readings are much better, battery still at 4,06v with 4.05v at 510....much, much better!

Fitted an attie with original Kanthal builds and it's certainly improved. Not how I'd just like it, but I'll get a SS build with a lower ohm value and I feel sure I'll be on my way to squonking nirvana!

Again, thank you for your contributions

0.01v loss is negligible really but a damn good clean sounds like the order of the day, drop the resistance a little too and I think you'll be right then, but dont forget to check whether the centre pin is a sprung or screw adjustment - I had trouble with my First E7 Sunbox because of the centre pin needing adjustment...

 

[hodge40]

def head down the cleaning route first- i vape exclusively mech squonkers at much higher resistance ( 0.8-1.4) and get perfectly satisfactory vape-i do use flavour based small chamber/tighter draw attys though

 

[TonyH]

I've got 4 mech squonkers here, all running different atties built between 0.7 and 0.8 with a single 3mm i.d. coil of 26 gauge kanthal. They all have different juices too. The only one that gets hot is a No Toy Clone on an ally Coppervape...

 

[disk0vape]

It took me some time to find my feet with mechs but I tend to go for alot of the builds mentioned in here.

I very rarely dual coil my atty's these days as I find it a bit too rowdy.

Single coils SS316 fused or alien claptons - 4 to 6 wraps depending on the atty and mod. Or another I recently picked up is dual wraps with ss316 or 317 which works pretty much the same as flattened wire, just not quite as rowdy.

Firstly though check the mod for volt drop, as from some of the builds you have tried, you should be getting a better vape.

 

[jacinabox]

...Firstly though check the mod for volt drop, as from some of the builds you have tried, you should be getting a better vape.

See my earlier posts, prior to cleaning the gunk off the 510 I was close to 0.6v loss, after a quick clean it's down to 0.1v - not too much to worry about now
Following the suggestion of @Tubbyengineer, the 510 connection is sprung, but seems weak though it moves freely. It either needs further de-gunking or replacing.

I've tried some 316L 24g dual builds in the Goon and Sapor which came in at 0.2ohm and the Rockmodz is a lot better, but it still seems a "lazy" vape in comparison to a tube mech.

I've ordered up a Hobo clone and I'll give that a go, but I do feel it's not the choice of atty that's the issue. I'll break down the mod and make sure all is well there first. I'm not a huge fan of the brass top plate - it looks grubby so quickly, may be a chance to make a stainless one up and swap out the brass fire button too. I'll get some flat wire and try that for some builds as well.

Determined to get this working as I think it should otherwise it's just a pretty ornament!

As always, your thoughts, suggestions and advice are greatly appreciated

 

[EmbraSewerRat]

First thing to check is that you're getting the full output at the 510 - pop a meter on the 510 and just check the voltage out - sounds like you've got high internal resistance - possibly the switch, but since i'm not familiar with the device...
Other thing to check for is the centre pin on the mod - some of them are manually adjustable, if yours is manual it may need raising a fraction to give better contact...

Morning,

Wee follow up on this: Would you use an inline voltmeter to check the internal resistance or a multimeter?
If a multimeter, where do you put the measuring bits??

 

[jacinabox]

Morning,

Wee follow up on this: Would you use an inline voltmeter to check the internal resistance or a multimeter?
If a multimeter, where do you put the measuring bits??

I know your question is not directed at me, but FWIW I used a multi-meter...carefully or you'll cause a short! One probe on center pin and the other on the metal body of the 510 connector and press the fire button. Perhaps a safer way is to use a bare atty deck (no coils) and a probe to the pos and neg posts - a little more separation of the probes to reduce the risk of a short!

 

[Tubbyengineer]

Morning,

Wee follow up on this: Would you use an inline voltmeter to check the internal resistance or a multimeter?
If a multimeter, where do you put the measuring bits??

Best way to do it is to use a Multimeter, do two measurements per test - two of voltage at bare 510 connection - to rule in or out voltage loss on the mod, then two on the Mod and Un-coiled atty to rule out losses at the atty connection...