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AGA-T2 - Help needed :)

What kind of wire and mesh do you guys recomend? I usualy order 70/30 mix
 
I use 0,20 / 32awg kanthal, and 500 mesh. You could use either 300, 400 or 500 mesh. I dont really think it matters, because you can choose to roll it tight or loose. ... just preference.

The kanthal could be thicker if you use a mech mod, but 0,20 should do the trick.

If you roll a small piece of baking paper on the mesh wick where it goes through the top part of the tank, it will be easier to set up, as it will behave like an rsst, and the bottom coil will light up easier. Whis is because you will avoid the current going from the top part of the tank and into the mesh

I just got mine to work better now, but stil need a washer. All coils light up evenly though, but with a very small hotspot on the piece of wire going to the centerpost
 
What's the difference on loose and tight wick? What happends if you roll it too tight?
 
I just bought a bag of mixed washers from a local hardware shop, 60p with no postage made sense, and what a difference!
Using the drillbit method and the washers I made my first coil ever with no hotspots, none. Not one
 
Well, i just recieved my 350 and 400 mesh + 0.20 and 0.25mm wire from Vapo.ro, but i didnt recieve my washers yet. Ive been looking arround the city, and cant find anyone that has washers this small atm.
 
Some good sound advice on here concerning AGA T2 so I may be repeating some of what is said. It is true that although the wick hole has been moved closer to the center post the top still seems to be the main hotspot prob and it drove me crazy. The washer idea is one of the best as the closer contact is achieved, for me at first I always wanted my wick and coil to look great but at the end of the day its not important you can also trying to bend the wick slightly closer to the center post, but I feel the main prob is that when you tighten the center post nut it will try to drag the wick closer and increase the tension on the top wrap which if left will start to burn the surface of the mesh down just making it more impossible to rid the hotspot or even causing a short. To help me with that I toll a straw wick with the hole down the middle for wicking is to use a paper clip or as I do a micro screwdriver inserted into the hole at the top of the wick before I tighten the center post screw bending the wick slightly away and this seems to remove a lot of the tightness from that top wrap. Most use .2mm kanthal but if it really becomes a pain blowing coils use .23 mm kanthal which is slightly thicker and causes less problems, you may have to put an extra wrap on with the .23 as it has less resistance but it is a little more tough and forgiving the only drawback of using slightly thicker wire is it takes just a little more time to get up to temperature. Consider that you have made the brave decision to start RBA's with the T2 and it is not the easiest to setup but when you get there it is well worth it, be patient with yourself and experiment with suggestions, plus of course ask if there is another problem or you still can't quite get it right, with the AGA's it takes a little time but the work put in will pay. The mesh you have just recieved are good for the mix you have. I hope this has been of some help for you.

Regards

Simon
 
Seems to be useless without the washers tough, ive been trying for 2 hours straight. But there is still a tiny hotspot. Iff i get it to go away, it comes back if i run it too long or too hard. I think ill give it a go when my washers arrive, at least i got mesh and wick to have allot of fails.

I must say, the Vamo v2 realy is a great device. I'm used to the LT Chrome, but it cant stand up with the vamo for miles!

This information is realy nice, ive learned allot. But i guess i just need to get the hang of it. Ill come back with more when i got my washers.
 
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