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Help with BP Pioneer Wicking

Make sure the cotton is tight in the coil too. As much as you can get in without damaging the coil. Then Bruce
 
Hi all, first post, long time lurker.
I'm going to chime in here because i was having problems with the pioneer as well.
I wanted this tank for about 8 months or so and eventually got one a couple of months back.
First build i followed Bruce's video. Perfect vape etc. Loved it.
Then after two to three weeks, it started to gurgle. Ok, time to change the cotton. (bear in mind, this is in a rotation of 7 or 8 mtl tanks which only get no more than 10 drags off each before i pick up the next.)
Second build, gurgled. and third, forth etc etc. Changed the coil, cleaned the whole thing. Same again. gurgled and leaked.
I was getting ready to bin it and thought, "I'll re-watch the video" et Voila!
Smooth and near silent.

So for me, the reason for the gurgle and leak was that i got sloppy and thought i knew it all. The key really is in the video. ;)

Cheers, Frank.
 
Hi all, first post, long time lurker.
I'm going to chime in here because i was having problems with the pioneer as well.
I wanted this tank for about 8 months or so and eventually got one a couple of months back.
First build i followed Bruce's video. Perfect vape etc. Loved it.
Then after two to three weeks, it started to gurgle. Ok, time to change the cotton. (bear in mind, this is in a rotation of 7 or 8 mtl tanks which only get no more than 10 drags off each before i pick up the next.)
Second build, gurgled. and third, forth etc etc. Changed the coil, cleaned the whole thing. Same again. gurgled and leaked.
I was getting ready to bin it and thought, "I'll re-watch the video" et Voila!
Smooth and near silent.

So for me, the reason for the gurgle and leak was that i got sloppy and thought i knew it all. The key really is in the video. ;)

Cheers, Frank.
Thanks for the reply, Frank.

I’m not getting any leaking as of yet, but what I am getting is an inconsistent smooth vape. I’m getting what sounds like loud bubbling like it’s struggling somehow. Any idea what could be causing this?
This is my latest build.

I’ve even switched to a 3mm coil to add more cotton as I thought that was my issue.

Thanks!
 
Would I have to take the build apart to check this?

Ideally, yes.

You would need to take out the 510 pin and then basically blow through the airflow ring with all the airholes open, and blow through with the cyclops slot open too, with a bit of paper towel over the 510 & the deck to catch any liquid that might come out.


Just be aware that one of the deck posts will come loose when you remove the 510 pin with no coil build in there.

And make sure you don't loose the insulator that's in there with the 510 pin. It's a cream coloured bit of plastic.


If you don't want to do that you could try blowing through the airholes & the cyclops slot to see if it shifts any liquid that might be trapped.

It might work, it might not. Worth a try to save some hassle.


Btw you can remove the 510 pin if you still have a build in the deck, so you could check / clean that of any liquid before doing anything else as your airflow passes through that to get to the coil.
 
Thanks for the reply, Frank.
Any idea what could be causing this?
Thanks!

Not sure Craig, all i can suggest is to make sure there is clear daylight between the cotton and the posts and same on opposite side.
Also make sure the cotton isnt bulging upwards.
It was the only thing that i changed from all the wicking attempts that gurgled. I said leaked previously, but it wasnt pouring out, just wet every time i unscrewed the tank from the mod.
 
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Not sure Craig, all i can suggest is to make sure there is clear daylight between the cotton and the posts and same on opposite side.
Also make sure the cotton isnt bulging upwards.
It was the only thing that i changed from all the wicking attempts that gurgled. I said leaked previously, but it wasnt pouring out, just wet every time i unscrewed the tank from the mod.
I’ll keep this in mind more for my next build. In regards to Bruce’s video, when he brings the cotton more centralised and narrow wouldn’t they leave gaps in the channels and would that cause problems?
 
Ideally, yes.

You would need to take out the 510 pin and then basically blow through the airflow ring with all the airholes open, and blow through with the cyclops slot open too, with a bit of paper towel over the 510 & the deck to catch any liquid that might come out.


Just be aware that one of the deck posts will come loose when you remove the 510 pin with no coil build in there.

And make sure you don't loose the insulator that's in there with the 510 pin. It's a cream coloured bit of plastic.


If you don't want to do that you could try blowing through the airholes & the cyclops slot to see if it shifts any liquid that might be trapped.

It might work, it might not. Worth a try to save some hassle.


Btw you can remove the 510 pin if you still have a build in the deck, so you could check / clean that of any liquid before doing anything else as your airflow passes through that to get to the coil.
I unscrewed the 510 pin and cleaned inside it and blew out any excess juice and there was a little inside so I cleared any I could find. It’s now sounding a lot better and the airflow seems a lot looser now even with one hole open on the 1.5 pin as before it felt tighter than it should. I’m still determined to get the draw smoother as I still feel something isn’t quite right.
 
I’ll keep this in mind more for my next build. In regards to Bruce’s video, when he brings the cotton more centralised and narrow wouldn’t they leave gaps in the channels and would that cause problems?

The wicking hole is the small slot / cutout at the front of the cotton wells, so bringing the cotton towards the centre is what you want to do.

As Bruce explained in his video from 3min onwards, when the cotton is left to touch the posts / chamber reducer & the chimney top it will slowly gather & drip down, getting into the airflow hole.
 
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