Fixing the Limelight Tube

[eightbitraptor]

I pulled this out of the MTL clubhouse thread because I thought it was useful enough for other Limelight Tube owners that it deserved a spot in our new MTL section

I bought one of these lovely atomizers http://limelightmechanics.com/shop/atomizer-tube-by-limelight-43mm/ from the classies, and when it came through I built it and oh my god the draw was TIGHT. Not in a good way, but vein-busting headache inducing tight.

Given that it has 1.8mm airflow under the coil and the side airflow holes are 1.8mm I figured something must have been wrong - seriously, when I received this it made my GP Spheroid feel like a wind tunnel. So I did what any self respecting tinkerer would have done - ripped it apart and attempted to fix it. And it worked.

Here's the problem with mine - I think that the airflow holes in the 510 have been drilled in the wrong place:

Airflow goes through the 510 similar to a Kayfun Lite, but when everything is screwed together tightly, the holes in the 510 are completely blocked off. I had a play with the positioning of the pin and the insulator and worked out that the airflow lines up perfectly when everything is as the picture below.

Unfortunately, this doesn't leave quite enough threading exposed above the deck to screw the positive deck post into the 510 screw, and because the insulator is now loose in the bottom part, nothing tightens up fully anyway.

I worked out that if I put a tiny o-ring or two on the bottom of the insulator (I used a couple I had from the spares bag of a Goblin Mini) and I pushed the 510 slightly further in, then I could get it to tighten, with the deck block fitted, and expose about 80-90% of the airhole in the 510.

But.... doing this pushes the insulator further up the shaft of the 510, which then makes it cover the airhole! So I trimmed the top off the insulator with a sharp knife and now everything pretty much lines up. Here's what my 510 pin assembly looks like:

I actually found that everything lines up perfectly when had 2 o-rings on like the above, but it turns out that this tank is way too airy for me (I know, Goldilocks, right), so I only used one o-ring in the end - this allows me to screw the 510 further home, thus closing off a chunk of that airhole and leaving maybe half of it exposed.

If I do this and then completely close off the AFC ring, then I get a draw that's very similar to my Spheroid, but in a 22mm tank that holds 4ml attachFull150375

Looks pretty smart on the EhPro 101

Hopefully this might help someone other then me in the future.

 

[eyeball kid]

I pulled this out of the MTL clubhouse thread because I thought it was useful enough for other Limelight Tube owners that it deserved a spot in our new MTL section

I bought one of these lovely atomizers http://limelightmechanics.com/shop/atomizer-tube-by-limelight-43mm/ from the classies, and when it came through I built it and oh my god the draw was TIGHT. Not in a good way, but vein-busting headache inducing tight.

Given that it has 1.8mm airflow under the coil and the side airflow holes are 1.8mm I figured something must have been wrong - seriously, when I received this it made my GP Spheroid feel like a wind tunnel. So I did what any self respecting tinkerer would have done - ripped it apart and attempted to fix it. And it worked.

Here's the problem with mine - I think that the airflow holes in the 510 have been drilled in the wrong place:

Airflow goes through the 510 similar to a Kayfun Lite, but when everything is screwed together tightly, the holes in the 510 are completely blocked off. I had a play with the positioning of the pin and the insulator and worked out that the airflow lines up perfectly when everything is as the picture below.

Unfortunately, this doesn't leave quite enough threading exposed above the deck to screw the positive deck post into the 510 screw, and because the insulator is now loose in the bottom part, nothing tightens up fully anyway.

I worked out that if I put a tiny o-ring or two on the bottom of the insulator (I used a couple I had from the spares bag of a Goblin Mini) and I pushed the 510 slightly further in, then I could get it to tighten, with the deck block fitted, and expose about 80-90% of the airhole in the 510.

But.... doing this pushes the insulator further up the shaft of the 510, which then makes it cover the airhole! So I trimmed the top off the insulator with a sharp knife and now everything pretty much lines up. Here's what my 510 pin assembly looks like:

I actually found that everything lines up perfectly when had 2 o-rings on like the above, but it turns out that this tank is way too airy for me (I know, Goldilocks, right), so I only used one o-ring in the end - this allows me to screw the 510 further home, thus closing off a chunk of that airhole and leaving maybe half of it exposed.

If I do this and then completely close off the AFC ring, then I get a draw that's very similar to my Spheroid, but in a 22mm tank that holds 4ml attachFull150375

Looks pretty smart on the EhPro 101

View attachment 150376

Hopefully this might help someone other then me in the future.

Excellent work bud but a pretty substantial blunder for an expensive rta.

 

[eightbitraptor]

Excellent work bud but a pretty substantial blunder for an expensive rta.

Yeah. I’d be pissed if I’d paid full price.

Me and @JustDave both have units that are affected and the serial numbers are within 25 of each other so my money is on a bad batch as I know others who haven’t been affected.