AceMelon
Achiever
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2015
- Messages
- 1,279
Not being 100% happy with the threaded C frame on my Zero, constantly having to adjust the 510 between atomisers, and some not even holding I decided to do something about it.
After a bit of research I plumped for the varitube spring loaded 510.
Having completed this I can safely say, the C frame is stainless steel. 4 brand new twist drill bits reduced to molten slag. It's not pretty under there. You can't solder to stainless with a simple iron, and you will burn your hand if you use a blowtorch iron and forget that metal conducts heat as well as electricity. (Still fecking sore)
However it is possible. And people with better skills than me would find it very straightforward.
I would do it again, but I would get the frame drilled out at a machine shop.
After a bit of research I plumped for the varitube spring loaded 510.
Having completed this I can safely say, the C frame is stainless steel. 4 brand new twist drill bits reduced to molten slag. It's not pretty under there. You can't solder to stainless with a simple iron, and you will burn your hand if you use a blowtorch iron and forget that metal conducts heat as well as electricity. (Still fecking sore)
However it is possible. And people with better skills than me would find it very straightforward.
I would do it again, but I would get the frame drilled out at a machine shop.
. You would have more luck drilling a small hole and press fitting a brass pin, and then soldering to that in future. Also if you can grab one a nice ti step drill bit, that managed to eat through ss, for me at least.
