3d printing a mod

[Tony Hunt]

Thinking of making a 3d printed mod. I've been inspired by the likes of the limelight wicket and a couple of stratum regulated mods that are far out of my price range.
I like the 3d printed body with exposed battery tube and either a star plat 75 or dna 60 chip.
I have some experience on fusion 360. Well enough to get to a prototype stage. Also a friend with a amazing 3d printer who's willing to print for me do rthe price I'd the material.
What I need is some advice on common pitfalls to avoid and advice on the best chip to use even if its not one of the ones I've listed above.

 

[nwhornet]

Thinking of making a 3d printed mod. I've been inspired by the likes of the limelight wicket and a couple of stratum regulated mods that are far out of my price range.
I like the 3d printed body with exposed battery tube and either a star plat 75 or dna 60 chip.
I have some experience on fusion 360. Well enough to get to a prototype stage. Also a friend with a amazing 3d printer who's willing to print for me do rthe price I'd the material.
What I need is some advice on common pitfalls to avoid and advice on the best chip to use even if its not one of the ones I've listed above.

@Vapaneezer Scrooge or @Make 'N' Vape should be able to give you some pointers.

 

[shale84]

I think dna75 is a very good chip,I make a few 3d printed mods but haven't designed any as I'm still beginer with Fusion360.
It shouldn't be hard if you know fusion just make sure you have enough space behind the board for wiring.
Also there are some designs on Thingiverse worth looking or even redesigning existing one,think I saw one with battery tube

 

[RAPTOREX]

Err, don't, can't they melt?

 

[nwhornet]

Err, don't, can't they melt?

No, if a mod got that hot you'd have lobbed it out the window long ago . Atties get warm but not enough to melt 3D mods. In the unlikely/rare chance a cell vents an open window will suffice. The OP is talking reg mod anyway so even less chance.

 

[Tony Hunt]

Err, don't, can't they melt?

No

 

[Vapaneezer Scrooge]

Here's my first effort using a DNA 75c board, I opted to use a @stealthvape actuator and mounting kit which made life a lot easier and less tacky.

All designed from scratch in Fusion 360.

Tips wise:

• DNA chipset wiring is about as easy as it gets as long as you use its default button positions.
• Design around the board and mounting first, this will mostly determine the width and height.
• Allow enough space for the wiring.
• Using a battery sled from Stealth Vape also made life easier with less heat worries.
• For the 510 connector go for one with a notched edge otherwise it WILL work free and rotate.
• I found the need to add a battery packer block to bring the battery forward enough to allow easy removal (you can't see it in the photos as its at the back).
• I also found I had to create a way of fixing the board from inside, this was more challenging than I thought and a bitch to screw into place.

Good luck, it was challenging but really satisfying making your own design, mine wasn't as ambitious as I hoped due to board & battery size constraints.

 

[Tony Hunt]

I think dna75 is a very good chip,I make a few 3d printed mods but haven't designed any as I'm still beginer with Fusion360.
It shouldn't be hard if you know fusion just make sure you have enough space behind the board for wiring.
Also there are some designs on Thingiverse worth looking or even redesigning existing one,think I saw one with battery tube

I'm far from a pro with fusion but I have designed a mod and had it printed in the past. I'm in no rush to build it as I have plenty to use right here. So I'll take my time and make sure I have all my parts so I can measure them and make sure there is room for every thing

 

[Vapaneezer Scrooge]

Forgot the other tips which relates to the 3D printer, the rear plate I designed to be a glue in fit as it eliminated the need for support, the less supports you need the better the end result, if you are unsure or stuck I'm happy to throw in some suggestions.

Also where ever you can add fillets to improve the chassis strength.

 

[Tony Hunt]

Here's my first effort using a DNA 75c board, I opted to use a @stealthvape actuator and mounting kit which made life a lot easier and less tacky.

All designed from scratch in Fusion 360.

Tips wise:

• DNA chipset wiring is about as easy as it gets as long as you use its default button positions.
• Design around the board and mounting first, this will mostly determine the width and height.
• Allow enough space for the wiring.
• Using a battery sled from Stealth Vape also made life easier with less heat worries.
• For the 510 connector go for one with a notched edge otherwise it WILL work free and rotate.
• I found the need to add a battery packer block to bring the battery forward enough to allow easy removal (you can't see it in the photos as its at the back).
• I also found I had to create a way of fixing the board from inside, this was more challenging than I thought and a bitch to screw into place.

Good luck, it was challenging but really satisfying making your own design, mine wasn't as ambitious as I hoped due to board & battery size constraints.

View attachment 210911 View attachment 210912

I intend to use a mod dog battery tube or similar to eliminate the need for a sled. No offence but I think they look and feel cheap. I would get a board mount but I can't seem to find one for the dna60. Anyone have a link to somewhere that makes one or print files so I can print it?
I also intend to use a 510 with screw fit to eliminate the old 510 tightening issues. Plus I like the look of a screwed in 510.